Category: News

Heritage is here to stay. What started as a trend intended to appeal to the hard core of collectors has slipped into the mainstream, and somewhere along the way it became a key pillar in major brands’ release strategies. In 2007 it was very much novelty, now it’s the new normal.

Case in point is Patek Philippe’s hero model of 2017 – the 5320G Perpetual Calendar, an undeniably handsome take on a very Patek complication. The 5320G is not a remake of a particular vintage reference (though it does bear a striking resemblance to the ref. 3448); rather it’s a melange of mid-century design codes, neatly combined in a 40mm white gold, retro-modernist package.

Most of the attention heaped upon the 5320G has focused on the dial, and it’s easy to see why. The layout is balanced, with day and month apertures at the top, and a moonphase display and pointer date at the bottom. The functions at six are flanked by relatively discreet portholes displaying day/night and leap year indicators respectively. Aside from that the dial is a very warm ivory or cream colour, paired with applied black gold Arabic numerals and syringe-style hands. Both hands and numerals are filled with Super-LumiNova, and the whole package is topped off with a plexi-evoking glassbox sapphire crystal. If you’re looking for nits to pick, you could object to the fact that the pure white calendar discs don’t match the dial colour (certainly given the RRP, it wouldn’t be unreasonable to ask), or the fact that the dial is lacquer instead of enamel. But all this doesn’t take away from just how stunning the 5320G is on the wrist.

For me the real star is the case, specifically the lugs. Triple-stepped and gently curving, this Deco design touch is perfection. Add to these lugs the broad bezel and middle as seen from the top down, and the slightly recessed crown, and there’s no denying that Patek has perfectly captured their history in this piece. 40mm is quite big for this style of replica watch, and I think 38–39mm would have been a sufficient size upgrade. Having said that, 40mm will be perfect for many wearers. Interestingly enough, the case is actually a single piece of gold, something that surprised me after having held the replica watch in my hands – I would have thought it had a more complex multipart construction.

The 5320G is powered by the calibre 324 S Q, the first time the base 324 has had a perpetual module popped on top. Power reserve isn’t massive, at around 40–45 hours, but the finishing, as with all things Patek, is superb.

In the end the 5320G is a great example of Patek Philippe moving with the times. They’ve cherry-picked some of the sweetest elements from their enviable past, and put it all into a stylish, delicious package.

Patek Philippe ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar pricing

Patek Philippe ref. 5320G Perpetual Calendar, in white gold, 73,000 CHF

Forgive us readers for we have sinned. It’s been two weeks since our last Wind Down. But we’re hoping you’ll forgive us as we’ve been a little preoccupied with the cavalcade of new releases that is Baselworld. Well, now we’ve overcome the jetlag and it’s back to business as usual. Which today means making the most of the fading summer sun, with a beer in hand and some very fresh memories to pick through.

What happened

Honestly we’re still coming down off the Basel high, and getting up to speed with the wider replica watch world so we’re probably not as well placed as usual to tell you. But we do know there’s record breaking auctions in the offing, yet another Hodinkee limited edition and it looks like we’re getting a Patek Philippe boutique in Sydney. Stay tuned for our top picks of Basel video that’s dropping tomorrow, but until then, how about a Best Of list with a difference? Written by a guy named Eric.

What really mattered

Remember that bag of swag we’ve been stuffing with the best replica watch swag we can find, in preparation for giving it away to one of our subscribers? Well, just a few minutes ago we fired up the trusty random number generator, compared it to an excel spreadsheet, and determined that the lucky winner is Miguel Gastelum. Miguel, if you’re reading this congratulations! If you’re not, well, we’ll email you.

The (last few weeks) in numbers:

65,753: Views of our overview of the key Rolex releases.

1,020,098: The number of people that viewed, commented, liked or shared our Basel coverage on Facebook.

19: People we met at Baselworld claiming to be @shameonwrist Hey, call us SOW, let’s sort out the real you from the pretenders.

1: Awesome intern jetting back to Switzerland this week. Elise, you will be missed. (We’re pretty sure Elise is not @shameonwrist) The whole team is a collective tear emoji right now.

1: Time+Tide team members currently on a boat.

We knew it, as soon as we tried it on. You guys knew it too, judging by the comments, which have usually gone something like, “I’d never been that interested in Bulgari before, but….” And naturally Bulgari knew it, which is why their booth at Baselworld dedicated its grandest display space to tell the story: the Octo Finissimo Automatic in titanium is the most refined mens piece ever for the brand in the ‘accessible’ category.

By ‘accessible’ – around $18k – we’re not talking entry level, but it certainly is a newly affordable price point for a barely there piece that holds the record for the thinnest automatic replica watch on the market. In addition there’s a fully murdered out Octo, with all black errrrrrrthang. And the softly cased new Octo Roma, which heartens with its warm tones and gentler curves.

Grand Seiko had big news at Baselworld 2017 – and not just the epically proportioned (and named) Hi-Beat 36000 Professional 600m Diver’s replica watch. No, the really big news was that for the first time since 1960, Grand Seiko would stand apart as its own brand. It was the logical next step for Japan’s premier replica watch brand, which only launched globally in 2010 but has been rapidly building boutiques ever since. Aside from changes to brand position, strategy, company structure and all that jazz, for replica watch fans the major shift is that Grand Seiko replica watches will no longer read “Seiko/Grand Seiko” on the dial. A break from tradition and a cleaner dial design in one fell swoop. Nice job Grand Seiko.

This is what 46.9mm by 16.9mm of Japanese titanium looks like on the wrist

One of the last people I saw before I left Australia for SIHH in January was James Marsden. He was on television, in dusty dungarees, with a vest, boots and a cowboy hat. His face was etched with pain. He’d just been shot by Ed Harris. Again. The television show is Westworld, the character is Teddy, and my wife and I remain obsessed with both. We’d binged our way through the first season in a matter of days, and then, a 27-hour flight and a broken night of sleep later, there I was with that very same character (Teddy) in real life. Reassuringly for you, dear reader, my interview questions extend well beyond his role on the incredible series, quickly focusing on replica watches. We also discuss how his obsession with timepieces began, and how he’s now seeking to pass the passion on to his son. But given the circumstances, the conversation does have to start with Westworld.

James Marsden as Teddy on Westworld. Image:John P Johnson, HBO

T+T: This is freaking me out. The last time I saw you was only a day or so ago. You were having a hard time in the Wild West…
JM: So is it freaking you out that I’m here and alive and there are no bullet holes?

T+T: I was going to say, I could shoot you to make you feel more comfortable?
JM: Well that’s what I’m used to.

Die another day. And another day. James Marsden as Teddy on Westworld. Image:John P Johnson, HBO

T+T: If you’ll allow me the segue, why do you think that, like your Westworld character, Teddy, mechanical replica watches are hard to kill? Why are they still so desirable in a digital world?
JM: I don’t believe it’s going to be an ‘either or’ thing with smart replica watches. There’s always going to be an industry for classic, handmade replica watches. I’m obsessed with replica watches. And by the way, I’m a fan of your website. I follow you through Replica Watchville. But when you think about what goes into making a timepiece that runs by itself, that generates its own power, or that you wind – the intricacies of that amaze me. You look in the back of this [he says motioning at his own IWC Portugieser], you look at the escapement, the mainspring, you think about the physics of it – how is this possible?

I have a great appreciation for how that’s done. I’m trying to get my son into replica watches and he’s into them – obviously not as much as I am – he’ll find something to like about them too, you know, the little details. And you can literally spend $5200 and get a great automatic replica watch, that if you’re stranded out in the middle of the woods, as long as you’re moving, it’s going to keep going. Or you could spend even less. Like one of those Seiko 5s. As long as you can generate movement, a good mechanical replica watch is going to outlive you. I know they require some maintenance, but I just marvel at the technical genius behind an automatic replica watch.

James Marsden Image: Supplied

T+T: When did your obsession with replica watches begin? Were there any turning points?
JM: I remember one of the first replica watches my ex-wife gave me was a dive replica watch, it was a TAG Heuer from years and years ago. I was wearing it on a movie set one day and the woman who was directing was like, “Look at you sitting there with your amazing replica watch.” It was the first time I got a compliment on a replica watch from a woman. So good. Delicious.

If you’re ever lost in the woods, James Marsden reckons you should have something like this on your wrist

T+T: Is the ongoing addiction about going ‘up’ in terms of spend, brand, complications?
JM: If I had all the money in the world, I don’t think I would go and spend it on a super, super grand complication. I’m a purist as far as simplicity and design go. You can make such a statement with some of the simplest designs, and I just want it to feel like it’s part of you and not like this giant rock that’s sitting on your wrist. As you can tell I’m actually a big replica watch fan.

T+T: I can tell. How has your relationship with replica watches changed over the years?
JM: When you’re young you think of it less as a statement piece, you think of it less as even a fashion thing. My first replica watch was a Casio calculator replica watch or a Swatch. I remember the first time I put one on, it made me feel more adult. It made me feel important, like I was a businessman or something. As I get older and as I learn more about horology and replica watchmaking and the fine craftsmanship that goes into them, I am becoming more obsessed with replica watches. I do think it’s the one thing for me. We wear so little jewellery. There are just a few things that men need and one is a great replica watch. A guy should have a great pair of shoes, a great suit and a great replica watch. It doesn’t have to be an expensive replica watch. It can be something that speaks to who you are and your identity.

T+T: Are you a one-watch guy or do you change it up day to day?
JM: I find myself wearing different replica watches for different events and different moods. As I get older I sort of go backwards into classic tastes. I’m not one to fully embrace the newest, biggest, fully crazy carbon fibre latest thing.

GENEVA, SWITZERLAND – JANUARY 17: James Marsden visits the IWC booth during the launch of the Da Vinci Novelties from the Swiss luxury replica watch manufacturer IWC Schaffhausen at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) (Photo by Chris Jackson/Getty Images for IWC)

T+T: Speaking about time more generally, what was difficult in Westworld about being a robot whose memory was constantly being erased?
JM: It was strange as an actor – you had to have a specific approach to it. It was something like I’d never played before. I had many, many questions about what degree of consciousness I had. How would I react in this situation? Do we sweat? Do I remember anything?

That was the big thing. Remembering. People forget, maybe they don’t, that when I meet the man in black and my gun doesn’t work and he kills me, that it may have happened 100 times already. But Teddy doesn’t remember that, so he’s reborn every time. Not as a baby or as an infant, but mentally, he’s programmed to have a certain level of story and consciousness. But there are boundaries to that and there are parameters to that. So I guess as an actor, James Marsden knows that this has happened a few times, but Teddy doesn’t know, so I had to remind myself that in his timespace this is the first time this is happening for him. Timeline plays a big part in the whole show. It asks: What is time? What is human consciousness? All of these cerebral, philosophical concepts come into play, for sure.

 “I would wear a $150,000 watch out. Maybe I wouldn’t go mud wrestling and tug-o-warring in it, but you still have to wear them. They were made to be enjoyed. They’re precious, but they’re not that precious.”

T+T: Where does Westworld sit for you in terms of its quality, and how proud you are of your work? Is it one of the better scripts, one of the better shows?
JM: It started when my agency sent me the script. They said this is potentially HBO and they’re putting a lot into this. And as we know now, there’s so few films that are in between that independent movie that goes to a film festival and a $300m action film. Everything in between has gone away. All those adult-themed, intelligently written projects have gone away because the studios aren’t taking gambles on them anymore. All that material, all those writers, all those directors are migrating to cable, to HBO. I read it. I thought it was mind-blowingly interesting and I didn’t understand everything I was meant to. I had a Skype conversation with Jono (Director Jonathon Nolan) about limited details of my character. It was one of the best scripts I’d read in a really long time. I knew JJ Abrams and Jono would create something really special.

T+T: Who was signed onto Westworld when you joined the cast?
JM: The cast that was already involved was Ed Harris and Anthony Hopkins. Ed and I came on at the same time. I knew that I wanted to be a part of this madness. It just bent my mind in a great way to think about where it could go storyline-wise. We didn’t even know where it was going as it was going! We did the first episode, then you get the second episode the week before shooting, the third a week before shooting – we had no idea where the story was going to take us. But I loved how ambitious it was. I loved how well-crafted it was.

It took a long time to do the first season, but it was something where I thought, wow, I can shoot this in LA, go home at the end of the day and be with my kids. You speak about time, there’s no better barometer for time than children. It quickens. It’s like you’ve hit the chrono, like, bam! You’re not replica watching the minute hand, you’re replica watching the second!

“… if it’s a wedding scene and they [the prop master] hand[s] me a replica watch with a date window, I’m like no, it should be time only. In fact if it’s a formal setting it should be time only. The replica watches are all fake anyway – they’re all repros of all these. So this is the degree of my obsession. It really matters to me.”

T+T: Do you try and sneak replica watches into your movies, or do the prop masters always choose them for you?
JM: Before I realised my obsession with replica watches and replica watchmaking I didn’t think that much about it. The prop master would come up and say here’s a replica watch, put it on. IWC was the first really special replica watch I was given as a gift when I wrapped a show. It was the last season of Ally McBeal. David E Kelley gave everyone on the cast a replica watch. It was the first really upper-tier nice replica watch that I’ve ever owned. It made me want to start learning about them. And, really, that was when the whole snowball avalanche started rolling. That was 2002. I learned about IWC at the time, so then I started learning… Now when I take on a role, I talk to the prop master and ask, who am I playing in this role? What would he wear? If this guy’s, like, a working class Navy SEAL, he’s going to need an Aquatimer with 30-bar, you know?

T+T: A working class SEAL with an Aquatimer?
JM: Ok, a Seiko SKX 007 dive replica watch! Maybe if he’s working class it’s not an IWC! But you know what I mean, a 200m, 300m ISO certified replica watch. Or if it’s a wedding scene and they hand me a replica watch with a date window, I’m like no, it should be time only. In fact if it’s a formal setting it should be time only. The replica watches are all fake anyway – they’re all repros of all these. So this is the degree of my obsession. It really matters to me. I’m such an extreme hobbyist.

T+T: What is an ‘extreme hobbyist’?
JM: It started when I got into collecting guitars, and the last couple of years I was really into art and learning about it. I don’t like to go buy everything then learn about it later. I like to learn everything first and then make the decision about what I want to buy and make a part of my life. It was cars at one point. My girlfriend will tell you, if you want to know anything about anything, have me make it my hobby for a bit. We were doing this last night, I was chatting with Christian Knoop (Creative Director of IWC) and he was mouth agape, going “How do you know what the 89630 movement is in my new perpetual calendar?”

James Marsden knows some very complex IWC movements by name, including the 89630 in the Da Vinci Chronograph Perpetual Calendar, just released at SIHH 2017

T+T: As a replica watch collector, are you striving to complete a collection? Is the hunger still there?
JM: Oh yeah, it’s always going to be there. I need to make sure I remain in a place where there are replica watches I cannot afford and that I know I can’t ever have. Even if you have the money to do it, I think that there should still be things you don’t allow yourself to get. Otherwise you just start to lose the value of things. There should always be things that you pine for.

T+T: Do you see milestones as replica watch buying opportunities? Ryan Reynolds was saying yesterday that he uses the birth of a child as a golden replica watch buying opportunity…
JM: I’m very much that way too. That’s one of the reasons I’m trying to get my son into it a bit. I want to create a collection, not to be ‘trailer queen’ – I use that term because it’s what car collectors call people that buy cars and never drive them…

T+T: We call the equivalent in the replica watch world ‘safe queens’…
JM: Safe queens are the worst. I would wear a $150,000 replica watch out. Maybe I wouldn’t go mud wrestling and tug-o-warring in it, but you still have to wear them. They were made to be enjoyed. They’re precious, but they’re not that precious. And actually, this is what I learned about collecting guitars – the more you play them, the better they sound. And I feel the same way about replica watches. There needs to be some life to them. Some soul to them. You have to wear them. If you’re buying a good replica watch, it will be robust. It wants to be worn.

T+T: I’m sure the replica watchmaker wanted you to wear it, they spent so much time on it…
JM: They want you to wear it. Forget putting it in a safe forever, it’s not a good thing. There’s always amazing replica watches out there that I can’t have that I just kind of lust for. But I do believe that you don’t even need to spend a lot of money to get a great replica watch. You should have your beater replica watches, you should have your nice replica watches for your suits and everything. I’ve obviously got some really nice IWCs. I like their heritage and the intricacies of their movements. I also collect some vintage replica watches. Some old school stuff, those pieces that they just don’t make any more and that they’re not going to make any more.

I treat my replica watches with great care, but they’re never looked at as irreplaceable, precious things. They’re meant to be enjoyed. You can bang ’em up against the door jamb. It actually just gives it character. Some of my favourite guitars have splits, and Willie Nelson’s guitar that I own has a giant hole in the soundboard. The more you play it the more the soundboard vibrates. But even now, you look at 1970s replica watches made in 18-carat yellow gold, the way they tarnish, the imperfections in the paint mixtures that went into the hands, the dial, the ageing of tritium, the oxidisation of that, you see that patina grow over time. Even the imperfections of a replica watch become the thing that is sought after. I guess what I’m saying is the more you knock it around, sometimes the more it ages and you use it, the more personality and the more soul the replica watch has.

Editor’s note: There’s nothing that replica watch journos love more than a replica watch with a story. Marketing departments know this, and try hard (sometimes too hard) to come up with gripping narratives behind their latest and greatest. In all my years of writing about replica watches, I’ve come across few stories as authentic and compelling as that of Australian micro-brand Aegir Instruments and the man who makes them. Oh, and the replica watches aren’t too shabby either.  

Todd Caldwell, the man behind the brand, is a commercial diver – and the inspiration for Caldwell to go out on a limb and make his own dive replica watch was hours of decompressing in a diving bell, with little to do but stare at his replica watch (I asked – it was a Panerai, and yes – he’s still got it).

Caldwell wasn’t happy with what he saw, or with any of the replica watches on the market for that matter. He wanted something he could wear at depth that wouldn’t look like a tuna can on the wrist, jutting out from a suit cuff. So decided to design his own, initially just for himself and a few diving buddies. Out of this process came two designs: The CD-1, forms the core of the Aegir Instruments collection, and the CD-2 – a limited edition of 100 pieces that has spared no expense in the quest for quality.

The CD-2 emerged because it turns out that people expect certain things of a dive replica watch. Water resistance is one, and a turning bezel is another. Somewhat ironically the classic dive replica watch bezel was superfluous to Caldwell’s needs as a diver. His dives, taken in diving bells, were measured in hours, not minutes. He’s only ever used a bezel to time how long it takes to boil an egg. But, people wanted a divers’ bezel – so Aegir delivered.

The CD-2 is quite a chunk of steel, with brushed 42mm case (with a helium escape valve) that wears a lot larger than you might expect thanks to that super wide bezel. This bezel is great, with simple numerals and hash marks that don’t try and fancy things up too much, and a luminova filled triangle at 12. It has a little bit of play in it, compared to the Rolex and Omega replica watches we happened to have lying around, but other than that it held up pretty well against the big boys.

Thankfully for those of us that aren’t professional divers Aegir Instruments have made the dial a little dressy, with large, shiny and generously luminova filled indices and hands. The white dial here is particularly elegant and a nice change from the usual spartan black this style of replica watch often defaults to. The logo and dial text at six is plain and simple, verging on an ‘un-designed’ look that manages to avoid being ugly. The strap is a 24mm option, which is quite wide for this size case, but it’s a perfect size for all those aftermarket Panerai straps you see everywhere.

There have been no half measures taken in the design, construction or manufacturing of this replica watch. To an almost epic degree as it turns out. Caldwell enlisted the help of Thomas Prescher in the prototyping phase. Prescher is one of the leading names of Swiss independent horology, who more commonly works with triple axis tourbillons. In and of itself this sets Aegir apart. But that wasn’t enough. German company Fricker – one of the most respected private case makers was commissioned to manufacture the case. The movement is the high grade Swiss Soprod A10. Depth rating isn’t 200, 300 or even 500 metres as would be reasonable for 99% of users.

Any guesses as to the depth rating on this weapon?

If you said 701 metres, please stand up, the meat tray is all yours. The significance of this wonderfully odd number is not random. It’s to match the depth of the deepest dive ever made (in 1992 by Greek Comex diver Theodoros Mavrostomos). Get thee to the Mariana Trench Aegir.

Even the straps are impressive. The standard option is a rubber ISOfrane (which on its own costs over $100) that is, in my opinion, the best rubber strap on the market. The CD-2 was originally available on Metta Catherina leather, which, if you’ll gather around the campfire for storytime, is an incredibly rare reindeer leather that was salvaged from a Russian ship that sank in 1768. Obviously 250-year-old Russian reindeer leather from long forgotten shipwrecks is in short supply, and these replica watches were all quickly snapped up. Can you even imagine what a marketer would do with a story like all this? The mind boggles.

In closing – though we could go on to be honest, this is a serious replica watch – the CD-2 is clearly a labour of love. Speaking with Caldwell it quickly becomes apparent that he isn’t in this for a quick buck. The CD-2 has a retail of $1900 (there may even be one or two left) and even though this price is higher than most of the other Australian replica watches it still represents great value. Especially if you’re a hardcore diver, or a hardcore replica watch lover. It’s going to go wherever you go, and do its job at every turn. While at a cursory glance the CD-2 looks like a lot of other dive replica watches on the market, closer examination reveals that all the little details have been thought about, and very little is compromised on. These replica watches are very much an expression of Caldwell’s passion and because of this the product is very pure. There is no marketing, there is no hype, which is something of a shame, because more people should know about this brand and the stories behind it.

The first Bell & Ross I ever laid my hands on, back in 2008, was the Marine, an uncommon and somewhat unusual beast that took the brand’s trademark dial and transplanted it into a large, 1000m water resistant, tonneau-shaped case that looked like it could handle anything short of being run over by a main battle tank (and even then it’d probably only scratch the case a little). And it turns out that this isn’t the brand’s first foray into the world of hardcore divers (check out the Hydromax). The only issue is that these older models don’t neatly fit into the Bell & Ross family. They’re round pegs trying to fit in a square hole.

The newly minted BR 03-92 Diver has no such problems. Bell & Ross has taken the instantly recognisable BR 03 case shape and turned it into their first ever square dive replica watch. The first thing I thought on seeing it was – why haven’t they done this before?

There is no doubt that the BR 03-92 Diver looks every inch the professional diver, as well it should, given that it has all the bells and whistles required by ISO 6425 – the international standard that effectively defines what is and isn’t a dive replica watch. There’s the crown guard, the 300m of water resistance, clearly different hour and minute hands, and of course that unidirectional dive bezel.

It’s still very much a Bell & Ross: square case with visible screws and solid rubber strap. What I find most interesting are the small evolutions, and the way the amended design plays with the brand’s established DNA. The handset and the applied luminous indices rather than printed Arabic numerals, for example, create a replica watch that is simultaneously familiar and unfamiliar. The introduction of this square diver is a smart and intriguing move from Bell & Ross, and I’ll be curious to see where it evolves from here.

Inside every car guy there’s a replica watch guy trying to escape, and vice versa. We’re not sure, but it looks like ICON 4×4’s Jonathan Ward has found the perfect balance of these two mechanical passions. So if mechanical powertrains of the wrist- or road-based variety are your bag, he’s definitely worth a follow.

NAME: Jonathan Ward
OCCUPATION: Co-founder/Owner ICON 4×4, unique car customiser and restorer
INSTAGRAM: @icon4x4
FOLLOWERS: 45k
LOCATION: Los Angeles, CA

Tell us about yourself.
My wife and I founded my company because I was frustrated with status quo in the custom automotive world. In one camp you had traditionalists who embraced the ‘stock’ (read: archaic) mechanical systems and adhered to restoring to the original configuration, imperfections and all. In the other, you had modifiers who followed established formulas (pro-touring, street rod) that often erase the grace and beauty in the details of a classic car.

So with ICON, I set out to revisit vintage transportation design in a modern context. The goal was to integrate and embrace all of the conveniences and corruptions of modern automobiles with all of the grace and design beauty of the classics. Sounds simple, but it involves many design and engineering challenges – which I love. Otherwise I get bored easily!

What’s your daily replica watch and why?
I’m totally out of control – I’ve got over 100 replica watches. I change every day – the only possible way to justify my collection is to wear them all! They’re mostly vintage (1890–1970), plus a few modern replica watches. But I’m far from a replica watch snob, and don’t even know the model numbers on most. I buy replica watches with quality movements and distinct designs, no matter the manufacturer. There are no batteries in anything I own. If there’s one criteria I look for, they gotta have soul!

Most of what I know I want is out of my budget. However, an early Universal Genève Moonphase chronograph, a Wakmann, or a perhaps a Sarpaneva would be nice. I’m also into military replica watches right now, as long as they are 37–44mm.

How do you unwind?
Lately I’ve been taking night classes in leather craft – learning from an old master, then corrupting the traditional processes with CAD and laser cutting. I’ve been making my own replica watch straps for a few months, plus the occasional wallet, which is good fun! They’re far from perfect, but each is better than the one before.

Although I have a large collection, I’ve run out of replica watches that I can do bands for. I’m now having my replica watch geek friends send me their replica watches for custom bands so I can continue to practice. I’m also practicing CAD 3D modeling, as I recently adopted a new program, Fusion 360 from Autodesk. Beyond that, I’m an avid traveller, and on the board of a great children’s charity called GO Campaign, which takes up a lot of my time.

What’s your daily ride (car/motorbike/dragon)?
I am a bit of a schizophrenic when it comes to my cars. I have such a wide appreciation for the craftsmanship and design perspective. So I roll a ’93 Bentley Continental Mulliner coupe, a 993 Turbo, a ’71 BMW 2002 and a ’51 DeSoto wagon. Plus I test drive each and every ICON that rolls out of my shop.

What are you working on at the moment?
We have over 50 active automotive projects at the shop. Most are production models that no longer require my attention. However, the Derelict and Reformer jobs are one-off projects that I’m deeply involved in, responsible for all design and content directives. The two that are eating up most of my time are ‘The Hellion’, a 1970 Superbird with a Hellcat integrated within, and a Tesla-eating ICON Derelict 1949 Mercury coupe with 800+ torque EV.

Do you have any special projects in the works?
Yes – quite a few in fact. Automotive-wise, we’re working on something very exciting that we’ll go public with in about a year. It’s an iconic 1970s coupe with the mechanical system (same brand and DNA) and conveniences of a brand new car.

I’m designing my own replica watch, which we hope to announce later this year. It will follow my ICON brand DNA of fusing modern touches into classic design. The first replica watch will be based on the speedometer and other details found on a special 1930s Duesenberg.

I also have a furniture project in the works. In collaboration with designer Davide Berruto, we’re designing and developing a chair based on one of my favorite design eras, Streamline Moderne.

How did you find yourself in custom car building? What was your background?
I have no right to call myself an industrial designer. I have no formal training, no degree. I simply followed my passion and my unique perspective (as we all should!). My wife and I found ourselves no longer passionate about our previous careers. While still young and without children, we decided to make the change and turn one of my hobbies into a business. I’m so glad we did!

 

When Bell & Ross launched their Instrument collection in 2005, they achieved what every new replica watch brand sets out to: they created an icon. This distinctive range of replica watches took the cockpit instruments of aeroplanes as their inspiration and suddenly there was a new player in the replica watch world that you could spot on the wrist at 100 paces. No mean feat when you consider the history and the hype you’re up against. So it turned out the Swiss replica watch industry, like John Mayer, has found room for squares. But all things must change, and the collection presented at Baselworld 2017 was the most highly evolved pack yet – with new models in a variety of shapes, materials and complications. The unifying factor, if there is one, is a continuing attitude of looking at things differently and balancing the stuffiness with a sense of play.

The new Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver

Editor’s Note: Last year one of the fiercest inter-office debates was about the perfectly composed heritage piece that is the larger Divers Sixty-Five from Oris. The perennial question was, “bronze or steel?” Andrew was firmly in the bronze camp, I was steel. Read on to find out why. 

Story in a second

No risk of second-album syndrome here – this slightly larger take on the Divers Sixty-Five is a worthy, if slightly more mainstream, follow-up to the original release.

There must be something good in the water at Hölstein, because Oris has been on fire lately. The 100% mechanical brand has always had a solid following thanks to its no-fuss divers and pilots pieces, but even though the replica watches represent excellent bang for buck, they’ve always been a little under the radar. That changed last year with the release of the original Divers Sixty-Five, a pitch-perfect reissue that hit all the right notes. Well, Oris has been busy making hay while the sun shines. There are now several new dial versions of the original model, as well as a 42mm limited edition bronze piece. Today, though, we’re focusing on the new steel 42mm version.

The case

To be honest, I was quite surprised (and pleased) that Oris kept the original at 40mm, as is only appropriate for such a vintage-feeling replica watch, but many people wanted it to be a little larger. Well, ask and Oris delivers: this case is bumped up to 42mm, giving a noticeable, but not overwhelming, increase in presence. All the other details are pretty much the same – the bezel with aluminium insert, the awesome, highly domed sapphire crystal, and the 100m of water resistance. Sure, some eyebrows may be raised at a dive replica watch with that level of WR, but it’s absolutely fine for swimming, and it’s a rating in keeping with the ‘skin diver’ roots of the piece.

The dial

This is where we see the other big change. Gone are the super-stylised cardinal numerals, replaced instead with much more conservative printed markers, in a cream colour that has a lovely vintage vibe to it. The other difference is that the dial is a wonderfully deep blue. Now, Oris has been very clever here – creating a much more crowd-friendly dial that still stands out from the pack. The Arabic numerals of the previous generation gave the replica watch its charm, but also turned away some people, who found them a little left-field. This version has none of those issues – it’s a textbook vintage-look dive replica watch dial in a proven design that’s a perennial favourite. But it also avoids homogeneity, thanks to the use of blue instead of black, as well as the nicely retro touch of the trapezoidal date window.

The movement

Ticking away inside is a Sellita Works 200-1, which is essentially the same as the ever-reliable ETA 2824. Not a particularly exciting movement but, for the price, it’s the logical choice.

The bracelet

Oris offers some great options here – from a handsomely on-trend suede strap, to tropic-style rubber and nice fabric options. Not only are all these straps good quality, they’re also considered choices. It would have been easy to pull out a generic rubber or leather strap, but the brand has gone to the effort of giving you choices that match perfectly with the look of the replica watch. But for me the real winner is the steel bracelet. Again, it’s a cut above. Oris has replicated the look of an old-school riveted bracelet to a tee, complete with solid links and a subtle taper. The one potential spanner in the works is the lug width. The specs put it at 21mm, which is an uncommon size, and irritating if you’re a fan of popping on aftermarket options – though having said that, you can often get away with 20 or 22mm straps.

The verdict

At the start of this review I used a debut/second album analogy, and it fits. The original Sixty-Five was the surprising breakthrough no one saw coming – like Oasis’s Definitely Maybe – compared to this more polished, more poppy second release – (What’s the Story) Morning Glory? The original and this 42mm version are both well-executed variations on a theme, each likely to appeal to different people. I for one can’t wait to see where the Sixty-Five goes next.

Talking point

Do you like the old or the new Sixty-Five more?

Who’s it for?

If you’re looking for a good, everyday replica watch with a retro flavour that won’t break the bank you could do a lot worse than this guy.

What would we change?

My only (minor) suggestion would be to bring the lug width back to 20mm.

Oris Divers Sixty Five 42mm Australian price

Oris Divers Sixty Five, 42mm, $2800 on strap, $3000 on bracelet

Images by Jason Reekie.