Roger Dubuis is well known for his avant-garde watchmaking and his non-conformist spirit and it seems to have understood that the “men’s or women’s watch” concept is largely old-fashioned. He concentrates on the “versatility” of the diameter of his new REPLICA Excalibur 36. In fact, a jewelled timepiece is not necessarily destined to be worn by the fairer sex – some male clients really like diameters smaller than 40mm, and others favour bezels studded with precious stones.
Going beyond the genderisation of products, Roger Dubuis’s fake Excalibur 36 model is aimed first and foremost at the lovers of character watches; at people who are looking for a timepiece with a strong identity. Its DLC-treated black titanium case is 36mm in diameter and 9.80mm thick. It is topped with an angular, notched bezel set with 48 brilliant-cut blue sapphires. Placed in rows of four stones, they reach a total of 1.5 carats. The electric blue of these gems is picked up by the dial in blue PVD with a sunburst finish where the rays converge on the centre, where dauphine-shaped hands in white gold are fixed, showing the hours and minutes. The hour marker is made up of long Roman numerals starting from the heart of the dial and spreading out towards the chapter ring. The seconds are displayed in an azure sunken counter, set off-centre at the 6 o’clock position. The lower part of this sub-dial includes a trapezoidal display that shows the date in black on a white background.
Two strips of blue alligator leather completed by a folding clasp in DLC-treated titanium are there to attach this new Roger Dubuis model to the wrist.
The Velvet collection is intended for refined and discerning women who appreciate the intrinsic value of a fine mechanical movement, but whose elegance and sophistication also draws them towards dressy, glamorous models. The Velvet Ribbon Haute Joaillerie is the perfect example. No less than 631 diamonds totalling around 53 carats adorn this High Jewellry model.
The ideally sized 38.5 mm platinum case of the Velvet Ribbon, redesigned to adapt to opulent gemsetting, is fully paved with emerald and baguette-cut diamonds. The inner bezel ring and luminous dial are also fully paved with baguette-cut diamonds creating an entrancing effect further enhanced by the fact that this pristine purity remains untroubled by the usual hour- markers. Roger Dubuis also decide to take away with the customary lateral lugs and leave only the inimitable central lug highlighted by two perfectly paired 1-carat F/IF-VVS gems.
The bracelet is entirely paved with emerald-cut diamonds. Its mesh pattern is meticulously hand-crafted and assembled from welded gold wires to follow the curve of the wrist while ensuring it remains as supple and flowing as possible. In addition to the play on different diamond cuts, a variety of techniques contribute to igniting the fire of the diamonds and reinforcing the hypnotic aura instilled by the play on contrasts and the nested geometrical shapes. This is particularly striking on the dial with its gradually widening tonneau motif and the receding perspective or sunburst pattern characteristic of Roger Dubuis designs.
In the centre, the fascinating invisible setting, based on cutting grooves into rounded stones and snapping the stones into a metal rail, ensures the gems are set so tightly that the metal is entirely concealed; while the ‘Clou de Paris’ setting, a process by which several stones are held in place with a single pin, radiates a unique charm that is picked up on the case middle and the platinum bracelet. Last but not least, the clever use of prong setting along with meticulously studied orientation of the centre stones combine to ensure that these large exceptional gems are shown to the best advantage, while openworked chatons ensure optimal dispersion of the light to create a truly entrancing effect. Water-resistant to 30 metres, this Velvet Ribbon bears the Poinçon de Genève and is powered by the self-winding Calibre RD821 complete with an openworked oscillating weight.