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Wholesale Famous Arnold & Son CTB Chronograph ‘Central True Beat’ Watch Hands-On Japanese Movement Replica

Last year at Baselworld 2014, Swiss Arnold & Son released a lovely new chronograph known as the Arnold & Son CTB Chronograph. As far as I know, this is the first chronograph watch with a “true beat” (dead beat) seconds hand paired to a traditional chronograph complication. aBlogtoWatch first debuted the Arnold & Son CTB Chronograph watch here last March with more technical specs, but read on to learn about this interesting and attractive timepiece.

The Arnold & Son CTB Chronograph is one of those watches that will be difficult to understand without seeing it in operation. In fact, it isn’t even clear that the watch is a chronograph when seen in pictures, nor is it clear how everything works. For this reason, I am happy that we are able to offer a hands-on video of the Arnold & Son CTB Chronograph in action. What you first need to understand, is that there are dual central hands, and one indicates the seconds for the time, and one records the seconds for the chronograph.

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The hand that indicates the seconds for the time “ticks” (even though the watch is purely mechanical) because it is a dead beat (“True Beat,” as Arnold & Son likes to call it) seconds hand. This is carried over from traditional regulator clocks which were highly precise instruments used for regulating other clocks. The central chronograph hand sweeps normally as to most other chronograph hands in 4Hz movements. Having them work together is interesting, because one hand ticks and one sweeps. The combination is unique, to say the least.

Under the 12 o’clock indicator on the dial is an eccentric dial for reading the current time. While the dial is small, it is very legible and attractive. We very much appreciate this design that Arnold & Son continues in many of its pieces. Note that the time uses Roman numeral markers while the chronograph elements on the dial use Arabic numeral markers. Over 6 o’clock on the dial is a 60-minute counter for the chronograph, and while the markers are small, it is still legible. The blued steel hands work well on the high-contrast non reflective dial textures and colors.

You’ll notice that the steel and gold models of the Arnold & Son CTB Chronograph have slightly different dial colors. The dial is more white (“silvery-white and silvery-opaline”) in the 18k rose gold version, while it is a bit more gray on the steel version. Speaking of which, we really like that Arnold & Son decided to offer a steel version of this interesting watch right off the bat. They have continuously been one of those progressive-minded high-end brands that has been offering steel versions of many of their high-end timepieces in addition to the gold models. This is part of a larger trend of collectors who are eager to get watches with cool movements and designs but don’t want to spend the types of premiums many brands demand for precious metals. We at aBlogtoWatch certainly echo that sentiment in asking brands to make sure more watches come in steel or titanium versions in addition to precious metal cases. Oh, and please don’t try to simply charge precious metal prices for non-precious things (though, sadly, that happens way too much).

Arnold & Son does offer their share of smaller watches, but their sweet-spot is about 44mm, the size of the Arnold & Son CTB Chronograph. The brand realizes that these are designs meant to be shown off, and I think they personally like the larger sizes on their own wrists. Though, if you want 40mm-wide watches, you can get them from the brand. Otherwise, the cases are pretty classic in proportions and handsome on the wrist.

Even though Arnold & Son likes to used domed sapphire crystals over the dial, you can see that there isn’t a ton of reflection, because they use a healthy amount of AR coating. This is especially important in classic-looking timepieces because too much glare on the dials tends to result in an ugly, cheap look for otherwise great-looking watches. I’ve said this before and I’ll say it again, the ideal viewing experience through the dial of a high-end watch is a sapphire crystal that you can’t even see. You should feel as though you can put your finger right on the dial.

The Arnold & Son CTB Chronograph is a real watch nerd’s watch, to the degree that explaining the functions to anyone other than to watch people, will result in a very short conversation. “Dude, want to check out my new watch? It has an automatic movement, a dead beat seconds hand, AND a chronograph all for under $30,000!” It’s funny, because as a seasoned watch guy, I get all excited about stuff like this but I must temper my feelings with the knowledge that most of the rest of the world believes me to have my priorities all mixed-up. It’s okay, we all have our little fantasy worlds where we experience perfection that we find lacking in the real world.

Inside the Arnold & Son CTB Chronograph is the in-house made caliber A&S7103 automatic movement. The automatic rotor spins on ceramic ball bearings and it has a power reserve of about 50 hours, operating at 4Hz (28,800). The movement is further slightly dark gray in its finishing, which is attractive. Arnold & Son still lacks some of the extremely fine hand-finished look of some of its competitors, instead offering movements that are a bit more machine-decorated in look. But there is still a lot of hand finishing and, of course, assembly.

The chronograph part of the 7103 movement uses a column-wheel and features a nice responsive action with the pushers for starting and stopping the chronograph complication. I do appreciate Arnold & Son sticking with a symmetrical layout on the dial, but think in the future, they could up the ante a bit more but putting two hands in the chronograph dial and allowing it to measure both minutes and hours – that seems like an appropriate Arnold & Son type of complication to offer and would give the dial a total of six hands, which would be fun.

The motion is merely 4.4mm thick and works at 3Hz (21,600bph) and indicates that the time in a subdial using the moments in a lower, smaller subsidiary dial. For the steel edition of the Time Pyramid, Arnold & Son coats much of the movement bridges at “NAC Gray” for the darker look which contrasts nicely with the blue tones of their palms and screws as well as the lighter silver-colored gears and wheels. Don’t miss all the hand-decoration like the chamfered and polished bridges. The overall look is quite nice, and with the newest style of sapphire crystal caseback the whole demonstration of this Arnold & Son Time Pyramid steel is much far better than ever.With that the hand-stitched black alligator strap, this Arnold & Son Time Pyramid Translucent Back watch looks fantastic on the wrist, especially due to just how much of your wrist you can’t see. The added element of fixing the sapphire crystal caseback is minor but very effective, and I can not really see people wanting to go back to completely clear sapphire crystals on completely skeletonized dial watches (unless they are working on very intriguing wrist tans). Price for this reference 1TPAS. S01A.C124S Arnold & Son Time Pyramid watch is31,900. The watch was just 8.34mm thick and placed the calibre A&S8200 which steps just 2.97mm thick.

While the Arnold & Son CTB Chronograph is not part of a limited edition, I am pretty sure that it will remain a niche product in the Arnold & Son line-up. Even though it is cool, it does combine both a sober dial with a high price. At this level, there are many options out there. If you just want a chronograph, you can spend less, and if you just watch with a dead beat seconds hand, you can spend less. Of course, there aren’t any other options out there if you want both, so for those people, Arnold & Son is here to serve you.

One thing the Arnold & Son Central True Beat Chronograph does have going for it, is visual appeal when using it. The dial is very animated, especially when the chronograph is activated. That means the Arnold & Son CTB Chronograph is the type of watch you can easily fall in love with when it is on your wrist – but of course, you’d need to find one to check out in person. With all that said, you know I love niche watches because I think everyone should have at least a few timepieces uniquely suited to them in addition to watches with a lot of mainstream appeal. Though such exclusivity usually comes with a price premium. The Arnold & Son CTB Chronograph ref. 1CHAS.S02A.C121S in steel is priced at $27,750 USD and the ref. 1CHAR.S01A.C120A in 18k red gold is priced at $44,350 USD. arnoldandson.com

How To Buy Arnold & Son DTE Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time Watch For 2015 Replica Clearance

It’s always nice to see brands celebrating their heritage appropriately. The new Arnold & Son DTE Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time watch does just that. Few brands around these days have the luxury of being able to claim their founder played a role in the creation of a complication, much less one as famous and ubiquitous as the tourbillon. Despite the fact that Arnold & Son have not been in continuous operation since the foundation of the company in 1764, the renaissance of the brand owes much to the longevity of John Arnold’s professional legacy, embellished through time by his personal friendship with Abraham Louis-Breguet.

John Arnold was one of the finest watchmakers of his time. A chronometer specialist by trade, his influence on his contemporary, and ultimate legend, Abraham-Louis Breguet is debatable, but the respect the two shared is not. Both men sent their sons to study under the other. And it is through Breguet’s most famous invention – the tourbillon – that the two become indelibly linked for all of time. You see, it was in Arnold’s watch – the No. 11 movement – that Breguet’s famed complication made its first appearance. And now, almost 250 years later, the reborn Arnold & Son honors that collaboration with the release of a twin-tourbillon model that is packed full of brand DNA and practical features.

The Arnold & Son DTE Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time watch case shape is quintessentially Arnold & Son and measures 43.5mm wide in 18k white gold. It is a very elegant design, with smooth, flowing lugs that affix to either a brown or black hand-stitched alligator strap – the choice is yours. The Arnold & Son DTE Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time watch is styled to match both colors well, which is a thoughtful touch that could well tip the scales for a potential purchaser. What this case does well is make its presence known without overbearing the main event. It is effectively a highly polished frame and it plays this role very well. It retains its own character thanks to the twin crowns (one at two and one at eight o’clock). Not only is their placement unusual (and totally functional), they are really beautifully fashioned things, featuring the proud logo of this historic brand. I’m a sucker for a good crown, and this one is up there as one of the best, in my opinion. Having two of them only makes it better and, for me, changes this case from boring to quietly cool.

So what do those two crowns do? Although we have covered the Arnold & Son DTE Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time watch before, for those who are seeing it for the first time, we will elaborate on that. As the name of the watch – which can be shortened to the Arnold & Son DTE – suggests, this watch features more than the two dial-mounted tourbillons, as those are matched to two time zones as well! Now, this isn’t your run of the mill world timer, with a proxy hand to indicate a second time zone, oh no – this is a dual time watch in the literal sense of the word. Those two silvery opaline dials on the face of the watch can be independently set by those two crowns so that any time can appear on either. In fact, these dials are so independent of each other, they even have their own train, escapement, and thus, tourbillon. They do, however, share a pair of barrels that are wound by the 2 o’clock crown and generate an impressive power reserve of 90 hours.

The first practical advantage of being able to set two dials independently is that not all time zones are separated by one hour increments. There are some that need to be set to half past the hour and a couple that require a quarter-hour differential. The second cool feature – and one that is arguably much more useful – is that you can set one of the dials to 12:00 and use it as a 12-hour chronograph (with to-the-minute accuracy, as there is no seconds hand).

The time is displayed by blued hour and minute hands, which, along with the dial backgrounds, are identical despite the fact that one dial (at 6 o’clock) features Arabic numerals and the other (at 12) Roman numerals. It was wise of Arnold & Son not to add seconds hands to these two independent dials: they are governed by separate escapements, which means their timekeeping would be unavoidably different – although for the ultimate watch nerd experience, it sure would be cool to see by how much the two are off from one another. One would hope that a properly functioning tourbillon would eliminate the majority of positional error, but even so, we could expect infinitesimal fluctuations.

You can’t ignore the depth of this dial – for me, and I am sure I am not alone with this, a multi-levelled dial can really make a watch stand out. A common criticism of dials of this nature is that they are too modern. Traditional techniques result in a much more 2D effect, but with the Arnold & Son DTE Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time watch we see an example of how both camps can be satisfied. Sure, it’s not going to be to everyone’s taste, but it is a good attempt at establishing a common ground.

This is a nice shot of the AS8513 calibre out of the watch from Height of Horology.

The Arnold & Son DTE Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time contains the A&S8513 calibre, which is a nickel silver movement with an NAC gray coating. The bridges and wheels are hand chamfered with polished edges, and the screws are bevelled to further enhance the play of light across the many surface finishes. There is a see through sapphire case back and the watch is water resistant to 30 meters. The movement is 37.3mm wide (making the most of the 43.5mm case), 8.35mm thick, and operates at 21,600vph.

Though the contemporary Arnold & Son is now owned by the Citizen Group and has been revived in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the legacy of precision timekeeping, advancements in escapement technology, and Breguet’s influence can nevertheless be felt with this timepiece. The Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton essentially combines two motions, each using their particular barrel, equipment train, escapement, and balance, combined with a single winding system and a single centralized second hand. The two dials for home time and GMT are thus powered with their own dedicated movements, allowing each to be set independently via a double crown in 3 and 9 o’clock. Coolness factor apart, this also includes a practical benefit in having the ability to set GMT time into the moment, which can be particularly beneficial when dealing with time zones offset by half an hour as portions of India, Australia, and Canada.In comparison to the non-skeletonized version of the Arnold & Son DBG we reviewed before, this incarnation supposes some legibility in order to better show that beautifully symmetrical motion. A ring of smoked sapphire crystal glass is used for every dial to help bring the numerals more into focus against the hectic background without completely obscuring it, and it is a smart move. GMT time may also be differentiated via the dial’s use of skeletonized hands and Roman numerals, versus the Arabic numerals and strong palms featured on the house time dial. Unlike the previous edition, the palms on the Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton are gilded rather than blued, which is visually a nice complement to the vulnerable balance wheels but also makes them hard to view at a glance.

Stylistically speaking, this is one of my favorite watches to hit the market this year – it’s a shame that there are only going to be 28 of them! I love the symmetry of the dial, the luxuriousness of the 18k gold tourbillon bridges, the synchronized dance of the twin-tourbillons, and the NAC gray-coated face, finished with Geneva stripes. Aesthetically, this watch brings to mind one of my all time favorites, the MB&F Legacy Machine 1 (hands-on here), which, incidentally, also has two independent time indications, albeit governed by one single escapement. The Arnold & Son DTE Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time does add two tourbillons, transforming itself it into more of an horological heavyweight (not that the LM1 would be anything but a marvel of modern horology). It’s no longer a new thing to display a tourbillon on the dial, but it does seem to be a sensible place to put it if your watch contains one. They are so interesting to look at. Even if you forget what it’s there for, it still looks really, really cool. And two is always better than one, right?

Unfortunately, multiple tourbillons come at a price. This is a limited run, and there will only be 28 of this Arnold & Son DTE Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time model available, each one with a price tag of $218,865. In my opinion, the Arnold & Son DTE Double Tourbillon Escapement Dual Time is a beautiful watch and one I would love to have on my wrist. It handles its size with grace, and that vertical symmetry is a treat! Alas, such class does not come cheap, but if you do have the money (or a very rich, generous friend) it’s not a bad thing to spend it on. arnoldandson.com

Who Makes The Best Arnold & Son Time Pyramid Watch In Steel Hands-On Replica For Sale

Hands-down one of the sexiest watches in 2013 was the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid that aBlogtoWatch reviewed here. A year later in 2014, Arnold & Son followed up with a version of the Time Pyramid watch in a steel case (debuted here). What was so interesting about the Time Pyramid? Well, first of all, just look at it. If you are into history, mechanical watches, and design, there is just too much to enjoy in this gorgeous creation. Perhaps the only thing I could say against it (aside from the fact that as a luxury item many people can’t afford it) is that you can see right through the detailed, colorful, and symmetrical mechanical movement to your hairy wrist.

Yes, the woes of the watch that is “too” skeletonized, but I assure you that you’ll forgive pieces like the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid for making your wrist feel a bit too naked in spots. From a size and functionality perspective, the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid ref. 1TPAR.S01A.C124A in 18k red gold and the ref. 1TPAS.S01A.C124S in steel are the same. The only difference is the finishing on the movement (the movement is “NAC grey treated” for a darker color in the steel model), and the price.

At 44.6mm wide, the Time Pyramid doesn’t wear “huge” because, first of all, it lacks a crown on the side. Going with the awesome obsession with symmetry, Arnold & Son designed the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid with a crown at 6 o’clock. The steel version is even more subdued because of its greater focus on being closer to monochromatic with its mostly gray and silver colored components. The Arnold & Son Time Pyramid in 18k red gold sticks out a bit more due to the case material and brass gears in the movement. Having said that, Arnold & Son did conceive the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid to be a statement on the wrist, so it isn’t going to wear like a petite dress watch – far from it.

I really don’t know if everyone feels the same way I do about the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid. I am not particularly shy about my love for the majority of what Arnold & Son has been doing in regard to watch design, but I just think that the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid watches are extra cool. There is just so much to look at and appreciate in the designs – and they are really enjoyable to wear as well. So if you happen to share my excitement for Arnold & Son, you’ll likely get giddy for the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid as well.

I suppose some people might try to complain about the “squiggly” serpentine-style power reserve hands. Each time I write about a Bovet watch with some hands in this style, there are inevitably a collection of people who disagree with the choice of design. Nonetheless, I think the serpentine hands work really well in the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid, because they help distinguish the power reserve hands from the hands that tell the time. Despite the more sober and dark colors of the steel version’s movement, the same style of blued steel hands work just fine.

Let’s discuss the movement inside of the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid watch just one more time, since we are on the topic of it. It is the in-house produced caliber A&S1615 manually wound movement with about 90 hours of power reserve operating at 21,600 bph. While it looks like there are double power reserve indicators, they don’t do exactly the same thing. As I understand it, the A&S1615 movement has two mainspring barrels. One of them kicks in as the primary mainspring winds down and loses torque. At that point, the secondary mainspring kick is to preserve isochronism (as best as possible). This roughly means that the movement design is meant to preserve accuracy as power winds down in the spring that powers it.

The Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton is the most recent addition to the DBG (Double-Balance GMT) collection that we reviewed the original, non-skeletonized variant of in greater detail here back in 2013. For those unfamiliar with this piece, it’s basically two motions which share a winding system, housed in 1 watch. Skeletonized, this view looks incredible and is the best example of Arnold & Son’s persistent progress.First, a little bit more about Arnold & Son’s DBG system. Each time screen is powered by its barrel, with its equipment train, escapement, and balance, while sharing a single winding system. While this isn’t always unprecedented, due to the offsets of the shared elements compared to the independent components, it’s not always pretty, and rarely skeletonized. However, with all the DBG Skeleton, we see virtually perfect symmetry about the dial along with caseback.The unusual nature of the in-house A&S1309 movement allows for a few added mechanical and functional advantages. For instance, because of the separate barrel, gear train, and escapement/balance, the GMT function comprises a “minutes” hand rather than the standard 24-hour counter only. Every time zone display in the Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton can be put to incremental quarters of this hour. So for some Indian, Australian, and Canadian time zones which are off by half-hours, for instance, the watch may account for this. Moreover, the Equation of Time display at 12 o’clock decides the difference between each screen, in addition to whether it’s night or day in the next time zone. The A&S1309 beats at 21,600bph and features a 40-hour power book.

Time is indicated on a lower subsidiary dial that is remarkably legible given its integration into the skeletonized face. Just above, it is a slightly hard to see subsidiary seconds hand which exists one level down on the three-dimensional display. At the top of the “pyramid” is the regulator system with oscillating balance wheel. I like that it is the only unfinished brass part of the movement.

Arnold & Son has always given credit to a British-made clock from circa 1830 as the inspiration for the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid watch collection. In fact, many of Arnold & Son’s contemporary pieces are inspired by vintage clocks and pocket watches. This is not a new thing in the watch industry, but what is unique is just how skillfully Arnold & Son’s head of design and development Sebastien Chaulmontet consistently arranges these inspirations into classic yet modern looking timepieces for today.

In steel, the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid has very much the same personality as the gold model, but in a slightly more discreet yet equally visually fascinating manner. What will motivate many people about the watch is of course its more accessible price. I will never refer to a watch priced at over $10,000 as being affordable. I prefer to take the lead of PR professionals in my industry and simply stick with “more accessible,” and it does not conceal the fact we are still talking about luxury items.

Whereas the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid in 18k red gold retails for $40,035, the ref. 1TPAS.S01A.C124S Time Pyramid in stainless steel is priced at $29,850. That is a cool $10,000 less. Arnold & Son just make it that much closer to many people’s grasp, but is this horological beauty within that many more people’s reach? arnoldandson.com

Top Grade Arnold & Son Royal TEC1 Tourbillon Chronograph Watch Replica Watches Free Shipping

The case measures in at 44mm, will probably be available in rose gold, also is water-resistant around 30m. The dial is completely skeletonized with dual accounts set against C?tes de Genève stripes, giving a nice contrast and extra girth. The time zone indicators, as with previous models, differ with Arabic and Roman numerals from an increasingly popular smoked backdrop. I feel these add an eclectic touch to almost equal halves of the watch. Since the motion does contain separate time zone components, every time zone is handled by its own crown, or “ears” as some enthusiasts refer to them, at 3 and 9 o’clock. Every time zone is placed with its individual crown, while the watch is wound solely by the crown at 3 o’clock. It manages to exhibit the complex and striking details of quite a complex timepiece without delving into the “too busy” category that many tend to fall into if handling such a complex endeavor. While I could definitely find a white gold or platinum option later on, I feel that this is a welcome addition to the group, and one I’d be excited to wear. 1DGAP. S10A.C120P is going to probably be limited to 30 pieces and will take a price of $38,850 that is really a few million dollars less than what the original DBG watch in gold price.

Just when we were beginning to think that the tourbillon was as played-out as a top 40 hit, Arnold & Son pulls us back in. After the success of last year’s Baselworld release of the UTTE, Arnold and Son had set a high bar for this year’s new model. With the recent announcement of the TEC1 Tourbillon Chronograph, I think we can consider that bar blown away. Part of their Royal collection, the TEC1 features a brand new in-house movement that combines a tourbillon, column wheel chronograph and automatic winding. With a beautiful and uncommon dial layout, the TEC1 offers huge amounts of complexity while maintaining the clean and elegant lines seen in Arnold & Son’s HMS1 line.

Any in-house automatic chronograph movement is noteworthy, but the Arnold & Son A&S8305 is something special. Running at 28,800 vph and supporting a power reserve of 55 hours, this manufacture movement supports a high frequency tourbillon at twelve o’clock along with a column wheel chronograph complication that offers a maximum measure of 60 minutes on a single sub dial at six. Comprised of over 255 components with 30 jewels, the A&S8305 is beautifully hand finished with circular graining, hand-chamfered bridges and a skeletonized 22 carat rotor.

A movement like this will need some space to stretch its legs, and the TEC1 sports a meaty 45mm 18-carat red gold or palladium case with an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and a sapphire display case back. The dial layout may be my favorite part about this new A&S chronograph, with a strong sense of balance and legibility that at first glance actually hides evidence of the chronograph (aside from the pushers adorning the right flank of the case). Dial text is minimal and the chronograph seconds measure is aided by a simple seconds scale surrounding the dial. The TEC1 offers a chronograph in the format of a fine dress watch that is bolstered by the presence of a tourbillon, which seems like a solid recipe for horological success.

Made in honor of their 250th anniversary, Arnold & Son is offering three versions of the TEC1, a limited edition in 18 carat red gold with a blue lacquered dial, a version with a palladium case and silver-white dial and the 18 carat red gold with anthracite dial seen here (images of the first two models are not yet available). Limited or not, we assume that demand may outstrip the annual production of a new and complicated watch such as this. With a list price starting at $99,050 USD on a matched alligator strap, well-heeled horology fans have yet another very cool and tourbillon-equipped option from Arnold & Son. arnoldandson.com

Top Grade Arnold & Son DSTB “Dial Side True Beat” Watch New For 2014 Replica For Sale

Arnold & Son will release this interesting limited edition DSTB watch at Baselworld 2014. “DSTB” stands for “Dial Side True Beat” and is a revision on the brand non well-known TB88 watch collection. In Arnold & Son speak “true beat” means dead seconds. What is that? Well, it is what you call a mechanical watch’s second hand when it ticks versus sweeps.

Recently, we also debuted Arnold & Son’s new for 2014 DTE double tourbillon watch. I think that I like it a bit more aesthetically due to its symmetrical dial, but the DSTB is surely going to be more accessibly priced without the multiple tourbillons. My main issue with the DSTB is the name. I am getting more and more confused with Arnold & Son’s alphabet soup naming policy. Eventually, they need to choose actual names or use these acronyms for internal use only.

Although the contemporary Arnold & Son is now owned by the Citizen Group and continues to be revived in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the heritage of precision timekeeping, progress in escapement engineering, and Breguet’s influence can nevertheless be felt with this timepiece. The Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton essentially combines two movements, each using their own barrel, equipment train, escapement, and balance, united by a single winding system and a single centralized second hand. The two dials for house time and GMT are thus powered by their own dedicated movements, allowing each to be set independently via a dual crown in 3 and 9 o’clock. Coolness factor apart, this also includes a practical benefit in being able to place GMT time to the minute, which can be particularly beneficial when dealing with time zones offset by 30 minutes as parts of India, Australia, and Canada.In comparison to the non-skeletonized variant of this Arnold & Son DBG we analyzed previously, this incarnation sacrifices some legibility in order to better show that beautifully symmetrical movement. A ring of smoked sapphire crystal glass is employed for every dial to help bring the numerals more into focus against the busy background without completely obscuring it, and it is a clever move. GMT time can also be differentiated through the dial’s use of skeletonized hands and Roman numerals, compared to the Arabic numerals and solid palms featured on the house time dial. Unlike the previous version, the palms on the Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton are gilded instead of blued, which can be visually a wonderful complement to the exposed balance wheels but also makes them hard to view at a glance.

The DSTB is true to its name, but is a bit misleading because the TB88 also had the true beat seconds hands on the dial. The only new thing that is on the dial is the small anchor element that moves with each second; that element was on the rear of the watch in the TB88. What is new, however, is the addition of automatic winding. What is interesting is the combination of elements that combine various Arnold & Son designs with a few new things taken from traditional watch movement design, such as the bridges on the dial.

Inside the DSTB watch is the in-house made Arnold & Son A&S6003 automatic movement that operates at 4Hz and has a power reserve of 50 hours. Again, the gearing is designed to give the seconds hands a dead seconds style of ticking, in an off-centered display separate from the hour and minute dial. The seconds hand actually moves across a lovely ring made from a piece of sapphire crystal.

The DSTB case is 43.5mm wide in 18k red gold only. No steel version this time around, but perhaps that is coming later. Arnold & Son is releasing this as part of their 250th anniversary collection, and that fact is rather clear on the dial– something that I am not sure needs to be there. Still, the Arnold & Son style dial for the time is easy to read and the overall piece is attractive, even if it doesn’t feel quite as compelling as some of the brands’ other models. Arnold & Son will release the DSTB watch as a limited edition of 50 pieces. Price is 44,928 Swiss Francs. arnoldandson.com

Arnold & Son DSTB technical specs:

Calibre: A&S6003
Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement, self-winding, 32 jewels, diameter 38 mm, thickness 7.39 mm, power reserve 50 h, 28,800 vibrations/h

Functions: hours, minutes, true beat seconds

Movement decoration: palladium treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing: hand-chamfered bridges and polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, dial plate NAC grey treated with large circular finishing, circular satin-finished wheels, blued screws with beveled and mirror- polished heads
True beat seconds bridges: rose gold treated, satin-finished with hand-chamfered and polished edges
Oscillating weight: rhodium treated, skeletonised with brushed surfaces

Dial: domed and white lacquered, sapphire
Case: 18-carat red gold, diameter 43.5 mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, see-through sapphire case back, water-resistant to 30 m

Strap: hand-stitched brown or black alligator leather

Limited edition: 250th Anniversary, 50 timepieces

Reference: 1ATAR.L01A.C120A

Cheapest Arnold & Son TE8 Métiers d’Art I Tourbillon Watch Hands-On Replica Wholesale Center

Limited to just a handful of pieces, this is the Arnold & Son TE8 Métiers d’Art I, which is a distinctly decorated version of the larger TE8 watch collection and I happen to find it quite stunning. Reading the Arnold & Son website, you’d really think the brand was English, the way they talk about traditional English watchmaking and movement decoration. Are they British? Not really. John Arnold, the legendary English watchmaker was, of course, from England. The Arnold & Son of today is a testament to his work and legacy, though it is entirely Swiss.

There are very few actual watchmakers left in England producing timepieces (like Roger Smith), even though it is coming back (a bit). Most watches of this ilk are produced in Switzerland, and Arnold & Son is, unsurprisingly, one of them. In fact, Arnold & Son is a sort of extension of the La Joux-Perret movement manufacturer. Given that internal expertise and capability, Arnold & Son is able to produce such a wealth of interesting and complicated in-house movements. So why they focus so much on the English thing is strange to me. It is not enough to be inspired but a great English watchmaker but be resolutely Swiss?

While this question may seem inane to some, I think they are going to become more and more relevant, as Arnold & Son has been on a wonderful roll over the last few years, producing consistently cool timepieces at both the ultra-high-end range as well as the “normal” high-end range. This is due to a combination of their talented lead designer, as well as their industrial flexibility when it comes to making new cases, components, or entire movements. That they are willing to experiment with so many ideas, so often, is a true testament to their (Swiss) work.

Among their tourbillon-based models, is the TE8 (Tourbillon Escapement 8, which refers to the 80 hours of power reserve) and it comes in a few versions. This TE8 Métiers d’Art I version is perhaps the most visually arresting as it contains a unique machine engraved design for much of the dial that was created exclusively for this piece. It takes up more than half of the overall face, and is really stunning to look at.

One thing that is very interesting in comparison to other Arnold & Son watches is the use of German Silver for the movement plates. German Silver is actually not at all silver, but an alloy that has a lot of nickel and is used in some special high-end watch movements from brands such as A. Lange & Sohne, as well as in some Jaeger-LeCoultre watches (probably a few others brands as well). German Silver does not need to be plated (like brass does) and develops a nice golden patina over time. German Silver tends to hold decorative engravings and polishes very well, even though it is harder than brass.

The movement inside of the TE8 watch is the Arnold & Son caliber A&S8000. It is manually wound with 80 hours of power reserve and operates as a frequency of 21,600 bph (3Hz). The movement contains a traditional-styled tourbillon and the time. The mainspring barrel is partially skeletonized and viewable under 12 o’clock on the dial. Being able to see how tightly wound the spring is acts as a sort of power reserve indicator. The overall presentation of the A&S8000 movement is very good.

A lot of the movement decoration is done by hand, and he overall finishing of the movement is in a dark tone so this is not unfinished German Silver. Some of the movement is rhodium plated while other elements are in a NAC gray plated finish. I happen to like deeper colored movements that are decorated. It helps keep them masculine in appearance, but also classically high-end.

On the wrist the Arnold & Son TE8 Métiers d’Art I sits 44mm wide in 18k rose gold. Arnold & Son wasn’t going for a small watch, so this certainly isn’t one. One of the things I like about Arnold & Son is that they aren’t afraid to produce very traditionally-themed watches in sizes a lot more watch lovers wish to wear today.

The case is constructed of 4N increased gold along with the sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on either side to help eliminate distracting reflections. A ton of performance is on offer for travelers that can use the well-executed GMT complication, and lovers of mechanical watches are rewarded with views of those dual balance wheels with each glance at the wrist. It’s great to see the historic name of Arnold & Son still generating timepieces that push the boundaries of motion design, and do so in a nicely implemented, thoughtful way. The Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton watch is being offered in a limited run of 30 bits, with an asking price of $38,850.

Arnold & Son will produce just eight pieces of the limited edition TE8 Métiers d’Art I watch, but again this just one of a few TE8 collection watches (though I happen to feel that it is the most attractive). Overall the TE8 mixes the legibility and boldness of a high-end watch someone might wear on a regular basis, with an old-world decorative charm that I think the brand just keeps getting better and replicating. Price is $131,900. arnoldandson.com

Cheap Wholesale Arnold & Son DTE “Double Tourbillon Escapement” Watch Replica Watches Essentials

What do you get when you combine the Arnold & Son DBG and UTTE watches? The Arnold & Son DTE of course! Oddly, that even seems to make mathematical sense. For 2014 Swiss watch maker Arnold & Son will release this new limited edition double time, double tourbillon timepiece which is officially known as the “Double Tourbillon Escapement” watch. While it doesn’t break new ground technically, it doesn’t need to. This is all about visual and design excellence in the form of an admirably complicated watch from a brand that has been on a serious roll lately.

To understand how the DTE came into existence it is a good idea to first look at the Arnold & Son DBG (aBlogtoWatch review here) with its double balance wheels and double dials for the time. Next look at the 2013 Arnold & Son UTTE (aBlogtoWatch review here), that was their ultra-thin tourbillon timepiece. Combine the two and you get a rather thin case with two tourbillons and two dials for the time. It is like the two watches have a child who grew up to live in an even higher rent district than its already wealthy parents.

With that said, the Arnold & Son DTE watch is just 8.35mm thick in a 43.5mm wide case. That is just 0.01mm thicker than the 8.34mm thick Arnold & Son UTTE (Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement) watch. For 2014, the case will be offered exclusively in 18k red gold and the face will have Cotes de Geneve style decorative stripes. I also like the tall bridges that hold each of the tourbillon cages. Inside the watch is the new Arnold & Son in-house made A&S8513 manually wound movement with 90 hours of power reserve.

Technically speaking, the DTE is very much like the DBG in that each dial for the time has its own gear train and own escapement. That means each of the dials can be independently set to the minute and the two tourbillons each actually do something. This is in contrast to some other double tourbillon watches where the duo of tourbillons more or less serves as mechanical art. In this case the movement is separated into two gear trains that feed off the same mainspring barrel so the system makes much more practical sense.

With a handsome symmetrical design, this is sure to be one of our favorite new watches for Baselworld 2014. We look forward to getting a hands-on look at this lovely DTE timepiece, though it will be rather limited to start being initially offered as a limited edition of just 28 pieces in honor of the 250th anniversary of the brand’s namesake Mr. John Arnold. Price for the Arnold & Son DTE watch is $210,000. arnoldandson.com

Though the contemporary Arnold & Son is currently owned by the Citizen Group and continues to be revived in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the heritage of precision timekeeping, advancements in escapement technology, and Breguet’s influence can still be felt with this timepiece. The Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton basically combines two movements, each with their particular barrel, equipment train, escapement, and equilibrium, combined by a single winding system and one centralized second hand. The two dials for home time and GMT are powered by their own dedicated motions, allowing each to be set independently via a dual crown system at 3 and 9 o’clock. Coolness factor aside, this also includes a practical advantage in having the ability to set GMT time into the minute, which can be particularly beneficial when dealing with time zones cancel by half an hour as parts of India, Australia, and Canada.In contrast to the non-skeletonized variant of this Arnold & Son DBG we reviewed previously, this incarnation sacrifices some legibility in order to better show that beautifully symmetrical movement. A ring of smoked sapphire crystal is used for every dial to help attract the numerals more into focus against the busy backdrop without completely obscuring it, which is a smart move. GMT time can also be differentiated through the dial’s use of skeletonized hands and Roman numerals, versus the Arabic numerals and strong hands featured on the house time dial. Unlike the previous version, the hands on the Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton are gilded rather than blued, which is visually a wonderful complement to the vulnerable equilibrium wheels but also makes them hard to see at a glance.

DTE Technical Specs from Arnold & Son:

Calibre: A&S8513
Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical double tourbillon movement, hand-wound, 42 jewels, diameter 37.3 mm, thickness 8.35 mm, power reserve 90 h, double barrel, 21,600 vibrations/h
Functions: local hours and minutes, GMT hours and minutes, double tourbillon
Movement decoration: nickel-silver movement, rhodium treated with superlative Haute
Horlogerie finishing: hand-chamfered bridges and polished edges,
fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, plate dial
side with Côtes de Genève, circular satin-finished wheels with
hand-chamfered and polished edges, blued screws with bevelled and
mirror-polished heads
Tourbillon: 18-carat red gold bridges, satin-finished and mirror-
polished surfaces with hand-chamfered and polished edges
Hand-chamfered and mirror-polished tourbillon cages
Dial: domed and white lacquered
Case: 18-carat red gold, diameter 43.5 mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back see-through sapphire, water-resistant to 30 m
Strap: Hand-stitched brown or black alligator leather
Limited edition: 250th Anniversary, 28 timepieces
Reference: 1DTAR.L01A.C120A

Who Makes The Best Arnold & Son Golden Wheel Watch: Return Of The Star Wheel Replica Watches Online Safe

This article is the 5th or 6th time that I’ve written about the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid, so for everyday readers, my apologies for repeating myself. With these sexy images of the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid Steel Translucent I couldn’t help but dive into the watch again. Along with the benefit of the specially coloured sapphire crystal caseback on this version, I think that the same strategy can (and should) be used on other skeletonized dial and motion watches. It actually becomes a real issue to inhibit the attractiveness of a fully skeletonized design together with the fact that if folks wear these watches they don’t really need to stare in their very own skin throughout the dial.Inside the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid is the brand’s in-house-made caliber A&S1615 manually wound mechanical motion I continue to adore. It is not only that the motion is designed to appear cool – though it’s – but rather the motion has some intriguing mechanical characteristics to boot. For instance, the dual power reserve indicators are a part of a system which uses two mainspring barrels to get a quasi-constant force mechanism. The notion is that a main mainspring barrel is utilized till it largely melts. At the point, the power coming from it is too unreliable to power the equipment train for precise timekeeping. So, then the secondary mainspring barrel kicks in to make sure the most constant power in order the A&S1615 movement is more accurate across its 90 hours of power reserve.
The case is constructed from 4N rose gold and the sapphire crystal has anti-reflective coating on either side to help remove distracting reflections. My mind went to the Jaeger-LeCoultre Duomètre versions, but where they provide twin barrels regulated by precisely the exact same balance wheel, the Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton goes complete monoblock mode for each dial, in the event the Hi-Fi analogy is at all apt for describing a wristwatch.Minor legibility and aesthetic caveats aside, the Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton is a handsome watch that manages to walk the fine line between attention-seeking and refinement with its bold, yet slim case and gold-on-silver colour. A whole lot of performance is available for travelers that can use the well-executed GMT complication, and fans of mechanical watches are rewarded with views of these dual balance wheels with each glance in the wrist. It’s great to see the historical name of Arnold & Son still generating timepieces that push the bounds of movement design, and do this in a nicely implemented, thoughtful way.

Some people are going to be really excited about the upcoming Arnold & Son Golden Wheel watch which marks a new “Star Wheel” style complication which many collectors have great enthusiasm for. This is a concept also known as “wandering hours” which has been around since at least the 18th century – though it is rare to find in watches today. The Arnold & Son Golden Wheel will mark a welcome return to the wandering hours concept with a little bit of Arnold & Son character and a lovely classic style.

“Star Wheel” is actually the name for a collection of watches from Audemars Piguet that was the last to emulate this style of watch. No longer produced, the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel came in a round case or in a Millenary form with the Audemars Piguet Millenary Star Wheel watch which Frank Geelen offered some hands-on with here. You can see the use of three transparent discs which revolve like a system of planetary gears which move an hour marker along a minute track. However, there is an even more modern interpretation of the wandering hours concept.

Though the contemporary Arnold & Son is currently owned by the Citizen Group and continues to be revived in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the heritage of precision timekeeping, advancements in escapement technology, and Breguet’s influence can nevertheless be felt with this timepiece. The Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton basically combines two movements, each with their own barrel, equipment train, escapement, and equilibrium, combined by one winding system and one centralized second hand. Both dials for house time and GMT are thus powered with their own dedicated movements, allowing each to be placed independently via a dual crown system in 3 and 9 o’clock. Coolness factor aside, this also includes a practical benefit in being able to set GMT time to the moment, which is particularly beneficial when dealing with time zones offset by 30 minutes such as portions of India, Australia, and Canada.In comparison to the non-skeletonized version of this Arnold & Son DBG we analyzed before, this incarnation supposes some legibility in order to better show that beautifully symmetrical motion. A ring of smoked sapphire crystal is employed for each dial to help attract the numerals more into focus against the hectic background without completely obscuring it, and it is a clever move. GMT time may also be differentiated via the dial’s usage of skeletonized hands and Roman numerals, compared to the Arabic numerals and solid palms featured on the house time dial. Unlike the previous version, the palms on the Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton are gilded instead of blued, which is visually a nice complement to the exposed balance wheels but also makes them hard to see at a glance.

Urwerk watches, for the most part, all use the Star Wheel concept in a system they call “satellite hours.” While Urwerk adds a modern interpretation that is more complicated and three-dimensional, the concept remains the same. With that said, while Urwerk’s timepieces are very cool and undoubtedly modern in their appearance , they do leave out those people interested in more traditional style designs. So thanks to Arnold & Son, there is something new in this department with the Golden Wheel. In the watch we have a return to the transparent sapphire crystals that each have four hour markers printed on them. The entire system moves and the current hour is read at the 12 o’clock point on the case along the minute track. Under the indicator for the current hour is a base of mother-of-pearl which adds decor as well as legibility to reading the current time.

Above the entire hour indication system is a running seconds hand. This has “ticks” – it advances once every second, as opposed to 6-8 times per second – due to the dead beat seconds complication in this mechanical movement. No one is doing more dead beat seconds hand complications today than Arnold & Son, and it is interesting to see it applied here. Of course, even though the seconds hand ticks, this is a purely mechanical watch – and the dial design really takes the wandering hours concept into modern times with the view of the finely finished movement parts on the dial. This is all part of the in-house made Arnold & Son caliber A&S6018 automatic movement that operates at 4Hz with about 50 hours of power reserve.

Arnold & Son reminds us that this is the first movement in the world to combine a “jumping digital hours” complication with a “true beat” (dead beat) seconds hand – we don’t challenge that claim. The overall dial and design is very attractive, though the scales on the periphery of the dial look a bit cluttered where the minute track is overlapped by the seconds track – a minor complaint. The central “time-carrousel” that holds the discs is in 18k red gold and contrasts well against the grey movement components underneath it.

What about the size of the Arnold & Son Golden Wheel case? It is 44mm wide available in 18k red gold for this debut limited edition version of the watch. Arnold & Son has been extending the lives of their new watches over a few years by releasing variations in different case materials and something with slightly different dial and movement finishing treatments. Regardless, I expect to see only limited amounts of the Arnold & Son Golden Wheel watch over time given their niche, yet profound, appeal to dedicated collectors. The ref. 1HVAR.M01A.C120A Arnold & Son Golden Wheel watch will be available as a limited edition of 125 pieces and will debut at Baselworld 2015. Price is $49,950. arnoldandson.com

Who Sells The Best Arnold & Son Instrument CTB “Central True Beat” Chronograph Watch Replica At Best Price

Arnold & Son has been coming up with many interesting pieces in recent times and last year saw them introduce the world’s thinnest tourbillon movement in their UTTE (Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement) watch. More recently, they introduced the very interesting DSTB (Dial Side True Beat) watch, which will premiere at Baselworld 2014 next week.

Like the Arnold & Son DSTB watch, the new Arnold & Son Instrument CTB (Central True Beat) watch will feature a true beat or dead beat seconds hand with a chronograph complication– the first ever as we understand it. We don’t see dead seconds often, but what it means is that instead of the seconds hand sweeping smoothly, it will tick like a quartz watch.

That may not sound like much, after all Antoine Martin’s Slow Runner also has a dead seconds hand courtesy of its 1Hz movement. What makes the Instrument CTB stand out is that it is also a chronograph and that its dead seconds hand is mounted centrally along with the regular running seconds hand.

According to Arnold & Son, to do this is no easy feat and the end result is that when the chronograph is activated, it looks as if the sweeping seconds hand is trapped in an endless game of cat and mouse with the dead beat seconds hand, because at the end of each second, the dead beat seconds hand quickly jumps away. Sounds interesting? I can’t wait to see this movement in action.

Do you prefer for me to remind you what the biggest problem is on watches with fully skeletonized dials and moves? It is you could often go through to your skin and arm hair. Yes, these sexy-looking timepieces with skeletonized moves and dials can seem amazing in theory (and pictured independently), but place them on your wrist in a real-world situation and only those individuals with the most beautiful of wrists will not have a reason to complain in any way. This is actually a common “thing” which watch fans can and do whine about.So, to cure this situation and react to this concern, Arnold & Son has done a small experimentation with this new variant of their Time Pyramid watch in steel at the version reference 1TPAS. S01A.C124S “Translucent Back” version. This version will also outright replace the first version of the Arnold & Son Time Pyramid in steel with the traditionally transparent front and rear sapphire crystal.Arnold & Son did an wonderful job with this watch but gave it no special name – which has been fairly idle. “Time Pyramid Translucent Back” is the name that I’m giving it whereas the closest entity Arnold & Son gets to a exceptional name (aside from the mention number) is “Time Pyramid Translucent-Grey Coated Sapphire Case Back” Ugh… Anyways, even without a proper title, the watch is still exactly what you want since the caseback is actually just one-way mirror material.

Powering this watch is the in-house A&S7103 calibre, which is an automatic consisting of 31 jewels and beating at a very modern 28,800 vibrations per hour or 4Hz. Power reserve is a very respectable 50 hours. Time is told off the sub-dial at 12 o’clock and there is a 60 minute counter for the chronograph at 6 o’clock.

The instrument CTB will come in a 44mm stainless steel case with a sapphire display case back that is water-resistant to 30 meters, and will be offered with black or brown alligator straps. Price in steel will be $27,135. arnoldandson.com

Tech specs from Arnold & Son:
Reference: 1CHAS.S02A.C121S

Calibre: A&S7103, Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement, self-winding, column- wheel, ceramic ball bearing, 31 jewels, diameter 30.4 mm, thickness 8.5 mm, power reserve 50 h (without chronograph), 28,800 vibrations/h

Functions: Hours, minutes, true beat seconds, chronograph

Movement decoration: NAC grey treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing: hand-chamfered bridges and polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, circular satin-finished wheels, screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads. Oscillating weight: skeletonised with brushed surfaces

Dial: Light-grey and silvery opaline

The Arnold & Son HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon’s crystal is anti-reflective sapphire and the case back allows for more accurate adjustments to the moon stage by showing a third moon through eight distinct phases. Once installed, the precision should hold for 122 years, after which a simple adjustment will guarantee it for another 122 decades. The hand-wound movement is an Arnold & Son manufacture A&S1512 which defeats at 21,600 bph using a 90-hour power book. The motion itself is 5.35mm thick and features 27 jewels, while the instance is rated for 30 meters of water resistance. As if the situation back were not beautiful enough, the C?tes de Genève revealed throughout the movement is merely lovely.The Arnold & Son HM Double Hemisphere Perpetual Moon includes a black or brownish hand-stitched alligator strap and is sure to catch the eye of many an eye lover. When trying to fix a issue, the beginning is always a good place to get started. That is exactly the process followed closely by Arnold & Son in their endeavor to eliminate isochronal mistake from among their newest pieces, the Arnold & Son Constant Force Tourbillon. Arnold & Son’s heritage exists in the heritage of John Arnold and his son, two of the most important watchmakers to ever come from England. So revered was Arnold that Abraham-Louis Breguet himself sent him his own son as an apprentice, while Arnold returned the favour. Having packed off his son to learn in the knee of the maestro, Arnold turned his attentions to the problem of these times: the pursuit for chronometric precision at sea.

Case: Stainless steel, diameter 44 mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, see-through sapphire case back, water-resistant to 30 m

Strap: Hand-stitched black or brown alligator leather

Top 10 My First Grail Watch: Sebastien Chaulmontet Of Arnold & Son Replica Wholesale Suppliers

A followup to the Tourbillon Chronometer No. 36 declared during Baselworld 2017, this new version presents dark gray and rose gold tones which serve to enhance the visual beauty and complexity of a watch that showcases the newest technical art. More importantly, the watch comes with a new stainless steel case with anthracite DLC coating to attain the pronounced gunmetal look. Though the inspiration for the watch is arguably among the most important classical timepieces from the new history, this model is far more modern in its execution and design.The original “Arnold 36” chronometer wasn’t just the initial pocket watch by John Arnold to utilize a bigger movement with the “T” equilibrium, but also the first to be called a “chronometer” because of its exceptional timekeeping capabilities. This was, of course, prior to the COSC affiliation that phrase is well known for today. Rather than fully replicate the piece visually, however, Arnold & Son has created something spectacular and modern with a movement that essentially takes place of the dial completely. Aside from the Arnold 36 chronometer, Arnold & Son is also paying tribute to the older English gunsmith convention, which is closely related to traditional watchmaking and shares many common methods.

Once set, the precision should hold for 122 decades, and an easy adjustment will ensure it for another 122 decades. The hand-wound movement is an Arnold & Son manufacture A&S1512 that beats at 21,600 bph using a 90-hour power reserve. As if the case back were not beautiful enough, the C?tes de Genève shown throughout the movement is just lovely.The Arnold & Son HM Dual Hemisphere Perpetual Moon comes with either a black or brownish hand-stitched alligator strap and is guaranteed to catch the attention of many a watch buff. The Arnold & Son HM Dual Hemisphere Perpetual Moon watch is priced at $30,500. When trying to fix a problem, the start is always a fantastic place to start. That is precisely the procedure followed by Arnold & Son in their endeavor to eliminate isochronal error from among the newest bits, the Arnold & Son Continuous Force Tourbillon. Arnold & Son’s heritage is present in the heritage of John Arnold and his son, two of the greatest watchmakers to come from England. Having packed off his son to learn in the back of the Swiss maestro, Arnold turned his attentions to the problem of these times: the pursuit for chronometric accuracy at sea.

Welcome back to an original aBlogtoWatch feature, “My First Grail Watch.” In this series, we ask prominent people in the watch industry about the first timepiece that they lusted after. Today, we’re speaking with Sebastien Chaulmontet, who heads the movement team at Arnold & Son. You’ll also note that he’s an avid collector enamored with chronographs, just like many of us.

At 12 o’clock is a day/night indicator for both GMT time and home time, using matching skeletonized and stuffed palms to tell them apart. The bottom half of the indicator is darkened, which aids the visual representation of the “nighttime” part of this disk. I really do wish the Arnold & Son logo was located elsewhere however, as its place interrupting the moments monitor at 12 o’clock could make exact time-setting difficult. Another niggling issue I discovered was that the next hand counterweight closely emulates the look of the home time palms, which can sometimes cause a moment of confusion when you glance down and watch three hands pointing at that dial. In an perfect world, I would have loved to see the minute hands on each dial stretched just a bit further to correctly get to the minute track, along with the hour hands shortened a tad to not overlap the hour mark, but that is a little aesthetic qualm which doesn’t impact utility.On the reverse side of this Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton, the bottom plate of this manufacture bore A&S1309 is revealed. The motion is made from nickel silver (also called German silver or Maillechort, an alloy of aluminum, nickel and zinc) that has been rhodium-plated and embellished with C?tes de Genève. The wheels are satin-finished and provide a contrasting three dimensional texture into the base plate, and between the chamfered edges of these bridges, the golden gear train could be viewed. The movement is hand wound of course, which contributes to its thinness in a mere 3.9mm. It features 42 jewels and offers a 40 hour power reserve while the double balances oscillate at 21,600vph, or 3Hz. That is definitely a highly refined motion, but in contrast to the thickness of detail offered by this skeletonized dial, the reverse side of the movement almost feels like a letdown.

aBlogtoWatch (ABTW): Who are you, and what is your relationship to the watch industry?

Sebastien Chaulmontet (SC): I am head of movement development at Arnold & Son, and I am also part of the design team.

ABTW: When did your fascination with watches start?

Sebastien Chaulmontet: As a child; I was 10 years old. I bought my first vintage watch (a simple ladies’ Omega) at a flea market. I wanted to give it to my mother for her birthday. It cost me 10 CHF at the time (around USD 10) and I still remember the day and place where I bought it. My mother still has the watch today and she remembers fondly that I bought my first watch for her.

ABTW: That’s a great bit of family history there. Let’s turn the focus more towards your collection – what was your first grail watch?

One of the greatest issues when it comes to precision is moderating the supply of electricity to the regulating organ of the timepiece (in this case, the tourbillon featured at the lower right quadrant of the dial). The mainspring, for example every component of this size, is vulnerable to certain molecular inconsistencies acquired during the creation procedure. Any internal or external inconsistency could lead to a fluctuation of power delivered into the gear train. And that is before one even considers the extreme drop-off in torque once the mainspring satisfactorily uncoils. As the mainspring winds down, the total amount of power delivered into the escapement dips. This can potentially play havoc with the timekeeping, so Arnold & Son have tried to remove this error by installing a “constant-force” mechanism. The modern incarnation of the business that lay dormant for over a century is doing what it is to reconnect with the source of its inspiration.Practically speaking, this component takes the location of a fuseé, which is an age-old continuous force complication we have seen on aBlogtoWatch very recently in the new Zenith Academy Georges Favre-Jacot Anniversary piece (read the review here), for example. To compensate for the inevitable drop-off in electricity generated with a single barrel at a standard set-up, Arnold & Son have started out with two gaseous barrels in string. The first barrel forces the equipment train, while the second barrel tops up the torque of the first if it drops below an optimal level. But their invention does not stop there.

Sebastien Chaulmontet: I had been searching for years for a vintage Angelus Chrono-datoluxe, the first ever chronograph with a big date.

ABTW: What drew you to this particular watch?

Sebastien Chaulmontet: I am a chronograph collector and I have always been attracted to Angelus as it was a real manufacture. This watch is particularly rare and a must-have for any chronograph collector.

Though the contemporary Arnold & Son is currently owned by the Citizen Group and continues to be revived in La Chaux-de-Fonds, Switzerland, the legacy of precision timekeeping, progress in escapement technology, and Breguet’s influence can nevertheless be felt with this timepiece. The Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton basically combines two motions, each using their own barrel, gear train, escapement, and balance, combined with a single winding system and a single centralized second hand. Both dials for home time and GMT are powered with their own dedicated motions, permitting each to be placed independently via a dual crown system at 3 and 9 o’clock. Coolness factor aside, this also has a practical advantage in being able to place GMT time into the moment, which can be particularly beneficial when dealing with time zones cancel by 30 minutes such as parts of India, Australia, and Canada.In contrast to the non-skeletonized variant of this Arnold & Son DBG we analyzed before, this incarnation sacrifices some legibility in order to better display that beautifully symmetrical movement. A ring of smoked sapphire crystal glass is used for each dial to help bring the numerals more into focus against the busy backdrop without completely obscuring it, which is a smart move. GMT time can also be differentiated via the dial’s use of skeletonized hands and Roman numerals, compared to the Arabic numerals and solid hands featured on the house time dial. Unlike the last version, the hands on the Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton are gilded instead of blued, which is visually a nice complement to the vulnerable equilibrium wheels but also makes them difficult to view at a glance.

ABTW: Was there ever a time in your life when you could afford it – and if so, did you get it?

Sebastien Chaulmontet: Yes, absolutely, I could and did buy it. I even bought some additional versions later on.

ABTW: Do you still have it, or have you moved on to something else?

Sebastien Chaulmontet: Of course, I still have it as part of my collection. As a collector the search/quest never ends, and I continue to collect other vintage chronographs.