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INSIGHT: Two sleeper hits from the replica Phillips Start-Stop-Reset auction

Editor’s Note: Time+Tide seems to have a thing for Canadian contributors, perhaps because we’re both Commonwealth countries. Whatever the reason, we’ve found another one. In his first post on Time+Tide, Chris Greenberg, who also writes for Christies and International Replica Watch Magazine, casts his eye over the upcoming Phillips auction.

Aurel Bacs and Phillips – two names that have had a huge impact on the vintage replica watch market in the past 18 months, with a series of outstanding auctions that reached even more outstanding prices. Mr Bacs has been a market-maker for vintage timepieces for more than 20 years, earning his stripes at Sotheby’s, Christie’s and now Phillips, where his sixth and latest auction “Start-Stop-Reset: 88 Epic Stainless Steel Chronographs”, taking place on May 14 in Geneva, has once again whipped up a frenzy of anticipation.

To be clear, while I love a minty-fresh vintage timepiece as much as the next replica watch-lover, I’m not what you would call a ‘vintage guy.’ That said, I fully acknowledge that personality goes a long way, and that the right smaller steel piece, with an interesting case and lugs combo has personality in spades. With that in mind, the catalogue for Start-Stop-Reset is a horological feast. To use the expression “they don’t make ’em like this anymore,” isn’t hyperbole – they really don’t. And the timing for this auction is perfect, as the once-humble vintage steel chrono is having its day like never before.

Condition, provenance, originality and who’s in the room at the time all come into play while navigating anything vintage but in this case the ‘Phillips factor’ is worth mentioning as well – Bacs and company have already made a name for themselves by sourcing the finest quality pieces with the most interesting stories, so you can almost guarantee prices will reach dizzying heights.

While much of the focus has, rightly, been on the heavy-hitting Patek and Rolex lots, I was taken by the Longines. Of the nine on offer, here are two that are particularly special.

LOT 55: Longines Tre Tachhe, 1943

I’m dismayed that I picked the most expensive piece, but this stepped-case number is just tops for me. The collector nickname, Tre Tacche, means ‘three notches’ in Italian, referring to the three little cutout sections of the caseback. Collectors should have come up with a nickname for the stepped case as well – they give the replica watch a great architectural feel. The gilt, black-lacquer dial is the other standout here; in sunlight it must be stunning. What will push this piece over the top, however, will likely be the Calibre 13ZN movement, which has earned quite a following and is well regarded as the industry’s first serially produced flyback chronograph movement. Flyback chronographs are able to return to zero and resume timing instantaneously by pressing the pusher – an ideal complication for aeronautical navigation in the 1940s.

LOT 43: Longines Chronostop, 1953

Another flyback also caught my eye, but it’s of a decidedly different stripe. This single-button number with its two-tone silver dial uses the Calibre 12.68Z movement and the appeal lies in the quirkiness of its chronograph feature. The central red hand counts minutes, while the centre ‘seconds’ hand measures elapsed seconds, while continuous seconds can be seen at six. This piece is unique, even for vintage. What’s more, at 37mm, it’s a wearable contemporary size.

Now of all the replica watches of the auction, the easy predictions for the big numbers are the million-dollar Patek 530 and the Rolex Antimagnetique, but I think the Longines Tre Tacche could be something of a sleeper hit. If the right people are in the room, then this replica watch – which is a perfect balance of both town and country, present and past – could do very well indeed. I know I would wear it. A lot.

FRIDAY WIND DOWN: 6th May, 2016

TGIF. I mean seriously, a lot happened this week. Not only did we party down with our favourite museum manager, Petros Protopapas, at last night’s Omega event, we also mingled with the beautiful people at the launch of IWC’s pilot collection. And how about the replica watches? Panerai gets super-complicated, releasing a minute repeater, and Christie’s has announced that its June auction will include a rarer-than-hen’s-teeth steel Lange 1 – one of three thought to exist. What a time to be alive!

What happened?

Now, we’re known for having a soft-spot for home grown replica watches, guys like Aegir, Erroyl, Melbourne Replica Watch Company and Bausele. In fact, we’ve got a fresh batch of local designs in the review pipeline as we speak. But one brand we won’t be featuring is the fair dinkum, ridgey didge Backbone Replica Watches. With model names like ‘The Tradies Replica Watch’ and ‘The Sparkies Replica Watch’, at least you know who they’re marketing to.

Hey true blue.

Their flagship model is more ’Strayan than Hoges chucking shrimps on the barbie while listening to the Oils and Chisel as he smashes tinnies with Merv Hughes. The replica watch is called the Backbone Bolter – Eureka, and features an automatic movement and a glorious blue dial emblazoned with the Southern Cross. The Eureka oath is printed around the outside of the dial. For our international readers, the Eureka Rebellion occurred in the gold-mining town of Ballarat in 1854, and has become seen as a pivotal moment for the democratic movement in Australia. And while the Eureka flag has long been a symbol of the union movement and political protestors, more recently it’s become associated with right wing nationalists. So, excuse us if we don’t rush out to buy one.

What really mattered?

Looking for a Linde Werdelin 3 Timer from 2009? Head to LW Vintage.

How replica watch brands deal with aftermarket sales has always been a vexed issue. Understandably many big brands aren’t too keen on encouraging the second hand and ‘grey market’ sales of their replica watches, as they’d much rather people bought from an authorised dealer. Add vintage replica watches into the mix and the picture gets even more complicated. Some brands are responsive in making it easy for vintage lovers, allowing you to check serial numbers etc. Others are decidedly more hands-off. Linde Werdelin have taken it a step further, launching LW Vintage this week, a brand-owned and endorsed marketplace for its entire back catalogue. Not only will Linde Werdelin service and guarantee any replica watch they’ve ever made, they’ll also match buyers to sellers. It’s a clever move, and one well suited to smaller, niche brands.

The week in numbers

700,000: The price, in dollars, of the most expensive replica watch at Her Journey Through Time (it’s the one on the left).

60: Guests enthralled by Omega’s history of women’s replica watches.

4: The number of male guests. A nice switch up from the usual gender ratio at replica watch events.

2: Surprises Petros pulled out of the pockets of his dinner jacket.

0: The amount of tweed Petros was wearing. We were disappointed.

MY REPLICA WATCH STORY: Michael’s vintage Heuer Bundeswehr

So Michael, what watch is this?

This is my Heuer Bundeswher 1550 SG Flyback ‘3H’, from around 1969.

And what’s its story – what makes it special?

Apparently this Bund was originally owned by a high-ranking officer of aviation unit Jagdgeschwader 74 (the 74th Fighter Wing), and based on the age of the cheap replica watch, it’s probably seen a lot of hours in the Lockheed F-104G Starfighter, which is cool.

Where did you get it?

I bought it off a collector in Germany who was selling some of his collection to help fund the restoration of a 1972 Porsche 911 Turbo, his loss was definitely my gain.

What place does it occupy in your line-up?

It’s my favourite in the collection so far, but due to the physical nature of my work I only wear it on the weekend.

Yes, I’d be terrified of scratching up that mint PVD bezel – is that concern for you?

There’s always a bit of fear that some catastrophe will happen when I wear it, but it was made to be worn and I’m pretty careful.

And finally, it’s a Bundeswehr replica watch, so I’ve got to ask – do you ever wear it on a bund strap?

No, I don’t often pair it with the bund as I don’t find it very comfortable. It spends the most time on my Heuerville straps, as is only appropriate.

LIST: 5 logos that ruined perfectly good replica watches. Or did they?

There’s a piece of pop culture folklore that says that when you retire, your employers give you a party and a gold replica watch. Now, if you were born after 1980, this concept seems like a quaint anachronism from some halcyon economic boom time, where job security was real and employers rewarded long service. But, trust us, we’ve replica watched Mad Men, back in the day this was actually a thing. And often the replica watches were personalised with the company logo. In the business, these replica watches are known as ‘presentation dials’, because, you know, they were presented to someone. And this is where things get weird/awesome. Supermarkets and fast food chains are about as far away from fine Swiss replica watchmaking as is possible to imagine, and yet, these dials happened. All the time. We tracked down a couple that may make you feel outright queasy, or hungry, depending entirely on you. While they might not have the same cachet a dial with Tiffany & Co. or COMEX written on it, they do have some interest. 10 Past Ten‘s Eric Ku says “While they’re not particularly rare, these replica watches are interesting. The logo and nostalgia factor are cool though. When it comes to value I feel that they will appreciate over time, but will always appeal more to Americana lovers than elegant replica watch collectors.”

Rolex Air-King with ‘Domino’s’ dial

Image via antiquorum.com

One of the least likely logos to show up on a Rolex replica watch is that of pizza franchise Domino’s. For many, the pizza chain logo on the dial is the epitome of tack – though it does lead to some excellent puns about pizzas being delivered in 30 minutes or less. To find out the story about these replica watches we found Mark Marshall, an actual Domino’s franchisee and proud owner of a Domino’s Air-King. Marshall explains that these replica watches, which have been around since the early ‘60s, are part of a Domino’s incentive policy called ‘The Rolex Challenge’. “Franchisees have to be general managers for a year. Most franchisees and general managers start as drivers or customer service representatives so the Domino’s Rolex is usually the first or only nice replica watch we get. It doesn’t matter if collectors like them, the vast majority will never be sold.” So the next time you dismiss these replica watches as another example of kitsch Americana, consider the hard work it took someone to earn it.

Omega with ‘Dunlop’ dial

Image via vintagewatchco.com.au

This one goes out to anyone that’s ever owned a pair of Dunlop Volley sneakers. This nice little 9ct gold dress replica watch was given to one E.A. Hurcombe to recognise 25 years of loyal service, way back in 1975. And as far as logos go it’s quite discreetly and tastefully done.

Rolex Air-King with ‘Winn-Dixie’ dial

Image vias omegaforums.net

Winn-Dixie is a supermarket chain from the American south, and this Air-King would have presented to one of their driver’s after a decade of hauling produce around without incident. I can’t image Coles or Woolworth’s ever recognising their employees’ loyalty in such a cool way.

Rolex Air-King with ‘Coca-Cola’ dial

Image via rwg.bz

Usually when Rolex fans talk about their ‘Pepsi’ and ‘Coke’, they’re talking about the bezel on their GMT. This Coca-Cola replica watch is a lot more literal, being given to a company employee for a quarter century of hard work. Oh, and if you’re wondering why three out of these five replica watches are Air-Kings it’s because for most, Rolex is synonymous with quality, and the Air-King has traditionally been the entry point into the collection.

Breitling Navitimer Cosmonaute with ‘Porco Rosso’ dial

Image via breitling-museum.com

I’ve saved the most intriguing replica watch for last. It’s a 2001 Brietling Navitimer Cosmonaute with a seaplane from Hayao Miyazake’s 1992 animated film Porco Rosso on the dial. All I know about this replica watch is that it was released in an edition of 300. But why? Was it to celebrate the tenth anniversary of the film? Was it an official Breitling release for the Japanese market, or was it a special commission? No one’s really sure, and that’s what makes it so cool.

HANDS-ON: Replica Batman (Rolex’s BLNR) v Superman (Franck Muller’s Vanguard Carbon Krypton), in ‘The Lume Wars’ (way better than ‘Dawn of Justice’, we PROMISE)

Earlier this year we were witness to a chance encounter between two giants of both the superhuman and horological pantheons. The showdown took place at dusk, on the shores of Lake Geneva, at Franck Muller’s Replica Watchland. The combatants? None other than the Batman, in the form of Rolex’s GMT-Master II BLNR, versus Superman, in the shape of the Franck Muller Vanguard Carbon Krypton.

The Rolex will be a known quantity to most, but just in case, here’s an excellent review by Bruce (Duguay, not Wayne). Its opponent, however, is probably new to you, a variant of Franck Muller’s sporty Vanguard, the Carbon Krypton. This eye-catching creation features a highly unusual case and dial combination of carbon fibre flecked with Super-Luminova. By day, the replica watch is Clark Kent, with a good-looking face and a broad-shouldered 44mm body. By night, the replica watch transforms into Superman, suffused with the glow of deadly Kryptonite, making it look meaner than ever.

In this battle, the winner won’t be determined by case shape or mechanical prowess, but rather by lume, which is shorthand for luminescence. Batman has Rolex’s proprietary Chromalight in his arsenal. The icy blue glow overpowers the Franck Muller’s Super-Luminova in brightness alone. But in terms of sheer shock and awe and otherworldly impact, the Franck Muller Vanguard’s Carbon Krypton takes the biscuit. Wow factor? Oh yes, there’s that. So it’s fair to say that both superheroes walked away from their night-fight bloodied, but unbeaten. And unlike Ben Affleck, with dignity fully intact.

The Franck Muller Vanguard Carbon Krypton has an Australian RRP of $21,400

The Rolex GMT-Master II BLNR has an Australian RRP of $11,300

EDITOR’S PICK: 6 golden rules for wearing gold replica watches

Editor’s Note: The art of wearing replica watches, like fashion in general, has rules. Not hard and fast ‘you’re going to jail if you break them’ rules, but rules nonetheless. Gold replica watches are a case in point. It’s so easy to make a gold replica watch look wrong. So, here it is. Unless you’re extremely confident and/or brave we suggest you pay attention to them or risk looking like one of Tony Soprano’s hapless henchmen.

Some replica watches, like this Portuguese Perpetual Calendar from IWC, demand to be made in gold.

It’s a sartorially treacherous world out there – full of fads, faux pas and rich fools in business class. Replica Watches are no different; there are unwritten rules about how to wear what, and when. But don’t worry. We’ll break it down for you. First on the block – how to wear a gold replica watch.

Just spent a packet on a gold replica watch (or even plate like this one)? Maybe keep it clear of all those metal bracelets, or it won’t look pristine for long.

Rule 1: Treat it like butter

If you remember Year 8 science; a – you’re doing better than me, all I can recall is dissecting an eyeball, and b; you might remember the table of elements. If you do you’ll know that gold is a dense, heavy metal that is also characterized by its softness. That buttery softness is part of it’s appeal. The higher the purity of the gold (24 karat gold being the purest – but more on that later) the softer it is. What this means in the real world is that if you wear your solid gold replica watch with other bracelets (gold steel, stones – whatever), you’re going to scratch up that gold replica watch real quick.

White gold makes this Skydweller from Rolex significantly less blingy.

Rule 2: Practice stealth wealth

Gold can be an acquired taste – and a solid yellow or rose gold replica watch certainly makes a statement. If this much bling isn’t your thing – but you still want the feeling of luxuriousness that only comes with a replica watch made from a hefty chunk of precious metal consider white gold, like the Rolex Skydweller in white gold above. White gold looks like steel to the casual glance, and only more detailed inspection will reveal its increased weight and captivating lustre.

This limited edition Speedmaster from Omega , made from Titanium, ceramic and gold is a case study for well done two-tone.

Rule 3: Mixed metals

The 80’s left many legacies – the threat of nuclear winter, double denim and two tone replica watches. Many of us remember the most abominable crimes of two tone, that brash combo of polished steel and polished yellow gold, a combo that just screams excess. It’s taken the replica watch industry a few decades to be able to revisit two tone replica watches safely, but with examples like this years Sedna (a proprietary gold blend), titanium and ceramic Speedmaster from Omega maybe it’s safe to return to two tone?

Hublot’s Classic Fusion Chronograph King Gold is made from a proprietary gold blend called – you guessed it – King Gold.

Rule 4: Karats, roses and plates – know your terms

Not all gold is created equal – and it’s important to know the sort of gold you’re getting. So briefly, the purity of gold is measured in karats, with 24 karat gold being pretty much pure gold. Being so soft means it’s usually not used for replica watches, most brands going for a more robust 18 karat option. It’s also important to note that gold comes in different colours, white gold is like steel in colour, yellow gold is well, the traditional gold colour, and rose, red or pink gold is gold that’s been mixed with copper, giving it a reddish hue. It’s also worth knowing that many brands have their own proprietary golds, like Sedna (Omega), King Gold (Hublot) or Everose (Rolex). And if you’re not able to afford solid gold, chances are gold plate is your best option. While there is gold in the plate, it’s usually only a few microns thick, meaning it could wear off in time, or show the base metal beneath if you scratch it.

The new Cellini range from Rolex is a great example of how a dressy gold replica watch should be done.

Rule 5: Dress it up

There are a few notable exceptions (we’re looking at you Calibre de Cartier Diver in pink gold) but generally gold tool replica watches are for tools. If it’s made for diving or working, stick to steel, and if you do have a solid gold dressy diver, wear it with a suit and tie, not a wetsuit (and definitely not crocs). Gold is a precious metal and deserves to be treated with a bit of respect. Keep it classy guys.

Chopard not only lead the way with excellent replica watches like this L.U.C Chronometer flyback, but they’re also serious about sourcing ethical gold.

Rule: 6: Be informed about where it comes from.

Sad to say, but the beautiful metal that is gold can come from some pretty ugly places, and gold mining can have some devastating social and environmental implications. So it’s really great to see a big replica watch brand like Chopard embrace ethically sourced gold through fairmined – a gold standard which ensures that the people who mine the gold, and the places it comes from are treated fairly.

Arnold Son Eight-Day Royal Navy Replica Watch Hands On

The new Eight-Day Royal Navy replica watch is a testament to Arnold & Son’s tradition of building marine chronometers. Equipped with a new eight-day power reserve movement, it is part of the sophisticated Royal Collection that took its inspiration from the timepieces commissioned by King George III.

Back in the 18th century, Arnold & Son’s marine chronometers delivered the robustness, reliability and down-to-the-second precision needed by marine navigators to determine longitude on the high seas.

The Eight-Day Royal Navy combines these historic features with a high-performance movement and two of the hallmarks of the antic Arnold & Son chronometers: the power reserve display at 12 o’clock and the “large” small seconds at 6. Inspired by the company’s historic chronometers, the replica watchmakers and designers at Arnold & Son set out to create a new in-house movement featuring an eight-day power reserve together with a digital date display.

This top-flight movement features an unusually open design and meticulous finishing. It delivers further proof of the brand’s creative flair and is the 18th movement to be developed and designed in the company’s own workshops in just five years. The ability to create an unending series of new, customized in-house movements enables Arnold & Son to make the perfectly designed, uncompromising timepieces for which it has made its name.

Arnold & Son’s history is closely related to that of the Royal Navy. John Arnold and his son played an influential role in the directions taken by English replica watchmaking. They dedicated themselves exclusively to the quest for absolute precision and a solution to the problem of determining longitude accurately and reliably on the high seas. So successful were they, and of such high quality their products, that within the space of a few years they had established themselves as suppliers of choice to the Royal Navy and to some of the most distinguished mariners and explorers of their day.

During this era, timepieces played a crucial role as aids to navigation and were effectively both technical and scientific instruments. John Arnold and his son decided to make them as rugged and reliable as possible, and in sufficient quantities to equip the Navy’s extensive fleet. Ultimately, they were to prove pivotal to the nation’s marine dominance and helped ensure that Britannia really did rule the waves.

Given the dominance of Swiss replica watchmaking in modern times, it is difficult to imagine an age when another horological culture and tradition held sway in Europe. The late 18th century, however, was an age when English replica watchmaking reigned supreme. The country’s replica watchmakers developed an aesthetic entirely of their own, dictated partly by contemporary taste but also by their desire to roll back the boundaries of a field that combined art, tradition and technology like no other.

To perpetuate the company’s heritage, Arnold & Son felt duty-bound to develop a new movement that would be both technically and aesthetically worthy of the House’s historic timepieces. As with every new calibre, Arnold & Son’s R&D team started with a blank sheet of paper, and set out to design a movement which, together with the case and dial, would constitute a harmonious whole. Among the more important specifications were a long power reserve, integrated power reserve and date displays, and a slim case. Ultimately, then, the positioning of every element had to be carefully thought out so as to achieve the optimum arrangement for the displays on the dial.

Thus was born the A&S1016 calibre. Equipped with a highly efficient twin barrel, the
A&S1016 calibre features an eight-day power reserve and has a fully integrated power reserve display and date function. Despite all these features, the movement is only 4.7 mm thick. To further underscore this technical excellence and in typical Arnold & Son tradition, the 242-part, 33-jewel A&S1016 calibre is meticulously finished: the entire palladium-treated nickel-silver movement features hand finishing indicative of the finest haute horlogerie timepieces, including skeletonized and chamfered bridges with polished edges, Côtes de Genève rayonnantes and fine circular graining, circular-grained wheels, and blued screws with polished and chamfered edges. The main jewels are set in solid 18-carat gold chatons.

The Eight-Day Royal Navy replica watch measures 43 mm in diameter, and its classically elegant stainless-steel case just 10.7 mm in height. Viewed from the side, the housing is stepped and tapers from top to bottom, the widest section accommodating the extra-large glass with the lower part narrowing to fit snugly on the wrist. As an indication of the attention to detail, the satin-finished inserts in the horns can be dismantled during servicing and re-satinized if necessary. The timepiece naturally features an anti-reflective sapphire crystal and case back to view the intricate details.

The replica watch is available with a choice of three guilloché dials in different colours: silver grey, black anthracite or the shade of royal blue typical of the brand. Further examples of the attention to detail are the colour of the date disc and the exquisite hand-aged calfskin strap, both of which match the colour of the dial. Overall, the Eight-Day Royal Navy is a beguiling work of technical mastery and fine art.

Technical details
Movement
Calibre: A&S1016
Manufacture Arnold & Son mechanical movement, hand-wound, 33 jewels, diameter 33 mm, thickness 4.70 mm, power reserve 192 h (eight days), double barrel, 21,600 beats per hour
Movement decoration: Palladium-treated nickel-silver movement, main plate featuring haute horlogerie finishing: Skeletonized hand-chamfered bridges with polished edges, côtes de Genève rayonnantes, fine circular graining, circular-grained wheels, blued screws, screwed gold chatons, screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads

Dial
Guilloché polished lacquer

Functions
Hours, minutes, small seconds, power reserve indicator, digital date

Case
Stainless steel, diameter 43 mm, cambered sapphire crystal with anti-reflective coating on both sides, see-through sapphire case back, water-resistant to 30 m

Strap
Hand-stitched blue, black or brown, hand-aged calf leather

References
Blue: 1EDAS.U01A.D136A
Black: 1EDAS.B01A.D134A
Silver: 1EDAS.S01A.D135A

Replica Ernest Borel 160th Anniversary Jules Borel Collection Limited Edition

To mark its 160th anniversary, Swiss replica watchmaker Ernest Borel uses the occasion of Baselworld 2016 to exclusively unveil a collection of 10 automatic movement replica watches for both men and women: The 160th ANNIVERSARY JULES BOREL COLLECTION.

Among its new creations, Ernest Borel has designed a new and essential timepiece in homage to the founder of the house, a true work of replica watchmaking art released in a limited edition, with 888 pieces available worldwide. An allusion to Chinese culture, the figure “8” is associated with happiness, wealth and eternity.

Supplied in a leather and wood presentation case, this prestigious model epitomises the very essence of a craft know-how that has been recognised since 1856. It meets every criterion of perfection established by Jules Borel, the creator of superlative replica watches, a subtle balance between tradition and contemporary design, yet exuding a true timelessness.

Enhanced by the rose gold that surrounds the 12 diamonds on its dial and embellishes the hands and bezel, this piece of rare beauty features a Swiss automatic movement with complication enclosing the hour, minute, second, date, day and power reserve functions. The choice of a strap in brown alligator and folding clasp also adds true elegance to this limited edition.

Water-resistant to 50 metres, this commemorative replica watch is a synthesis between past and present and will delight lovers of beautiful objects, sensitive to the heritage and traditional values of Swiss replica watchmaking.

Technical details
160th Anniversary Jules Borel Collection Limited Edition
Reference: GGR9160P-221BR
Limited Edition: 888 pieces

Movement
Caliber 9094
Swiss made automatic movement, Diameter 11.50mm, 21 jewels, Power reserve 42h, 28’800vibrations/h, Rhodium plated, Circular graining, Geneva stripes

Functions
Hours, Minutes, Seconds, Day, Date retrograde, Power reserve

Case
Rose gold PVD plated case, Diameter 40mm, Case back see-through sapphire with etching pattern
Water resistance: 50 meters (5 bar / 165 ft)

Dial
Silvered dial set with 12 diamonds, Golden hands, Day, date and power reserve indicator

Strap
Brown alligator strap, Folding buckle
Delivered with an additional alligator strap

Replica ANGELUS U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante Features A One-minute Tourbillon

The Angelus U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante is a three dimensional and modern mechanical wrist replica watch that unites three coveted “haute horlogerie” complications: the tourbillon, fly-back double column wheel chronograph and split-seconds (rattrapante), while also boasting automatic winding with a power reserve display.

Angelus brand proudly carries a long tradition in innovative chronograph wristwatches: this history of manufacture chronographs for the wrist began in 1925 with a monopusher. The company’s first highlight was the 1942 launch of the Chronodato, the world’s first serially manufactured chronograph with calendar. Throughout subsequent decades, Angelus released ever more groundbreaking chronographs, many of them including world-first complications.

It took almost five years of intensive research and development secured by several patents to create the U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante. It features a one-minute tourbillon, a fly-back double column wheel chronograph, a split-seconds (rattrapante), a self-winding mechanism and a power reserve indicator. However technically complicated that combination is, it is the movement’s contemporary architecture and three-dimensional design that make the Angelus Tourbillon Rattrapante truly unique. All of these complications have been reengineered based on structural optimization and skeletonized to reveal as much of the movement as possible on the dial side, all while ensuring maximum legibility of the time and chronograph functions. The skeleton bridges alone allow the display of no fewer than 15 different wheels dial side.

The movement hosts a number of complications – all fully integrated rather than modular add-ons – that are built on several layers, all visible thanks to the skeletonized bridges that create a form evoking the “A” of Angelus. To further increase the impression of depth, the movement is fully transparent around the tourbillon and treated in various shades of black and grey.

A tour of the open dial begins with skeletonized central hour and minute hands. High legibility is ensured by high-contrast black movement bridges underneath light-colored hour and minute hands, as well as the fact that the latter have slightly curved profiles to catch the light from any angle. The one-minute tourbillon occupies a quarter of the dial space and can be appreciated through the skeletonized movement plate and bridges at 10 o’clock. The tourbillon is high beat with 4 Hz / 28,800 vph, a perfect fit for the replica watch’s character. The tourbillon cage is entirely made of non-magnetic material and reduced to the maximum to further minimize mass and optimize performance. Not only can the tourbillon itself be fully admired dial side, but also all its gearing, creating an intriguing micro-mechanical display.

The power reserve indicator, with visible gears and wheels, is positioned at 8 o’clock directly integrated onto the skeletonized bridge: a green sector indicates ideal torque while red highlights that it’s time to wind the replica watch.

The chronograph function of the U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante is among the most refined and complicated in existence: the split-seconds or “double” chronograph. This type of chronograph is highly complex to achieve, especially when combined with a tourbillon, as the energy consumption of a rattrapante mechanism is very high.

The rattrapante (or split-seconds) function allows the timing of different events that begin but do not end together, for example the times of two runners. Two separate chronograph second hands are set one over the other; the one underneath is the split-seconds hand. When the chronograph is started, both hands start moving in lockstep together, until a press of the pusher in the crown “splits” them, with the top hand continuing and the bottom split seconds hand stopping to allow an intermediate time to be noted. By again pressing the pusher, the split-seconds hand will instantly catch up to the main chronograph hand, ready again to record a new intermediate time. Integrated onto the bridge at 3 o’clock, a 30-minute counter completes the chronograph functions.

The visible column wheel for the split-seconds function is beautifully placed at 4 o’clock, positioned just below the 30-minute counter. The observer can even replica watch it in operation when the split-seconds function is activated. A second column wheel on the back of the movement controls the chronograph.

Whereas the majority of chronographs operate in the sequence push-to-start, push-to-stop, and push-to-reset, Angelus’ U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante is first of all a “fly-back” chronograph, which means that the timing operation can be directly reset and restart without having to be stopped first. The fly-back function is very useful as it allows instant restarting of the chronograph with one push of the button instead of the three pushes necessary for standard chronographs.

The fly-back function is especially complicated to achieve when combined with the split seconds complication as the fly-back mechanism has not only one, but two, central chronograph hands to reset and restart. In addition, the forces generated on the split seconds mechanism during the instantaneous reset and restart are significant. Therefore, all of the different chronograph functions have to be painstakingly set and optimized by the master replica watchmaker during assembly in order to guarantee smooth operation of all functions.

Technical details
Model: U30 Tourbillon Rattrapante

Features and Indications
Central hours and minutes, tourbillon, fly-back double column wheel chronograph, split-seconds
(rattrapante), power reserve indicator

Movement and Finishing
Calibre: A-150, mechanical self-winding tourbillon split-seconds chronograph
Complications: One-minute tourbillon, fly-back chronograph, split-seconds, power reserve indicator
Jewels: 38
Diameter: 37.60 mm
Height: 9.35 mm
Power reserve: 45 hours
Frequency: 4 Hz / 28,800 vph
Balance wheel: Black gold-treated copper-beryllium
Escapement: Swiss lever
Regulated: Set to 5 positions
Gear train: Wheels with exclusive Angelus six-spoke design to maximize rigidity
Screws: Angelus three-point design torque-optimizing heads
Main plate and automatic bridge: Grey NAC-treated to maximize contrast and depth
Upper bridges: Black ADLC-treated
Column wheels: Black ADLC-treated and mirror-polished. Both the split-seconds’ column wheel on the dial side and chronograph column wheel on the back are visible
Tourbillon cage: Hand-chamfered and hand-polished. Black ADLC-treated second pointer
Movement finishing: Chamfered and polished edges, flat surfaces either satin-finished or sandblasted
Rotor: Black ADLC-treated with solid 22-karat white gold segment

Dial
Chapter ring: Hours, minutes and chronograph seconds markers
Counters: 30-minute counter laser engraved onto the upper chronograph bridge and rhodium treated. Power reserve indicator laser engraved onto the power reserve bridge, rhodium treated and filled with green and red lacquer
Hands: Skeletonized, sand-blasted with polished top hour and minute hands, sandblasted chronograph second hand with red tip, satin-finished split-seconds hand, sand-blasted with polished top power reserve hand, polished 30-minute counter hand with red line

Case
Material: Grade 5 titanium with black coating on the case band
Diameter: 47 mm
Thickness: 15 mm
Crown: Engraved with ANGELUS logo; 2 positions: 1. winding, 2. time-setting, split-seconds pusher integrated in the crown
Back: Transparent
Distance between lugs: 22 mm
Water resistance: 30 m / 100 ft / 3 atm
Crystals: Box sapphire crystal (front and back) with anti-reflective coating on the inside

Strap and buckle
Material: Black stealth alligator with titanium insert or rubber
Length range: 70 mm to 125 mm
Width: 22 / 20 mm
Buckle: Titanium, folding buckle engraved with Angelus logo

Limitation and reference number
Limited edition: 25 pieces
Reference number: 0CRAC.B01A.C003U

Replica RJ-Romain Jerome Tattoo-DNA by Xoil

Swiss luxury replica watch brand RJ-Romain Jerome presents its new Tattoo-DNA wristwatch in collaboration with world renowned tattoo artist, Xoil.

Xoil has applied his art on replica watch straps as an extension of his world. Inspired by nineteenth century imagery, the artist has created five worlds, or systems, based on the themes of Belief, Balance, Feeling, Perception and Emotion, in which legendary animals and mythological figures are thrown alongside anatomical plates and esoteric symbols. Each of these worlds is tattooed onto a board of five leather straps, with the illustrations overlapping from one bracelet to another. The 25 pieces adorning the Tattoo-DNA by Xoil collection are therefore unique and part of a harmonious whole guaranteed by the distinctive style of the artist and his very graphic tattoos which spread across the entire body, beyond the conventional areas.

The enamel dial of the new 44 mm case timepiece echoes the many dials accumulated by Xoil, a fervent collector of curiosities. The dial of the new Tattoo-DNA by Xoil has therefore been cut out with a water jet to reveal two separate and opposing parts. The Grand Feu enamel dial, decorated with Roman numerals and crafted in the replica watchmaking tradition, leaves room for a contemporary and skeletonised movement. Designed by RJ-Romain Jerome, the movement with right-angled bridges reveals the balance wheel at 6 o’clock, like a beating heart beneath tattooed skin.

The skeletonised small seconds ring, off-centred at 9 o’clock, was integrated into the dial to link the two worlds. And to accentuate the duality of the timepiece, RJ-Romain Jerome modernised the blue hands by reproducing the needles Xoil uses for his tattoos.

To finish the timepiece, RJ-Romain Jerome’s four characteristic paws secure the case, complete with hollowed lugs where the strap tattooed by Xoil takes its place.

The Tattoo-DNA by Xoil collection is limited to 25 unique replica pieces, each delivered with a certificate signed and numbered by the artist.

Technical details
Model: TaTToo-DNaby Xoil
Reference RJ.M.AU.025.05

Movement
Caliber RJ004-M – Mechanical movement
Black chrome skeleton movement
Rate frequency: 28,800 vph
Jewelling: 21 jewels
Power reserve: 48 hours
Water resistance: 3 atm (30 meters)

Functions
Central hours and minutes, small seconds at 9 o’clock

Case
Ø 44mm, black PVD-coated steel
Case back: Sapphire crystal
Bezel: Black PVD-coated satin-finished steel
Paws: Polished steel
Lugs: Hollowed, satin-finished steel
Crown: Steel screw-lock crown

Dial
Water-jet cut Grand Feu enamel dial with Roman numerals
Small seconds counter integrated into the dial
Hands: Blue hour, minute and second hand

Strap
Beige hand-tattooed calf strap with black PVD-coated pin buckle

Edition
Limited edition of 25 pieces

Retail price
CHF 19’950.-/ EUR 21’950.-/ USD 24’500.-