Since its daring launch in 1980, in the midst of the quartz crisis, the highly innovative Golden Bridge ‘baguette-shaped’ in-line movement has never been short on surprises. This inimitable calibre with its vertical linear architecture has found its place among the many models that have been part of Corum’s finest hours, as its CEO points out. “The Golden Bridge is the masterpiece of the Corum collection, representing the quintessence of Swiss watchmaking”, says David Traxler. “Its innovative aesthetic and the unique construction of its movement remain truly timeless. With this watch, we wanted to push the frontiers of movement architecture and of the watch itself.”
Tonneau (barrel) or rectangular-shaped cases, sometimes elongated in the extreme and fitted with transparent sapphire crystal sides, naturally appeared to represent an ideal setting in which to house the slender shape of this calibre, thereby providing a chance to admire the prowess of the watchmakers who built and assembled it. Nonetheless, this year’s launch of the first Golden Bridge Round model vividly demonstrates that associating a round watch with a horizontal movement can create a watch with fascinating geometrical effects.
Corum is now is the Golden Bridge Round launched this spring in a 43mm size, by offering a precious model with a daintier 39mm diameter dedicated to women and available in a choice of several materials and colours.
The standout Art Deco-inspired design sets a magnificent stage for the horizontal movement, superbly decorated and resting on its side in the middle of the watch. This mechanical hand-wound Calibre CO 113, with its balance wheel beating at a rate of 28,800 vph, drives the hours and minutes functions and ensures a 40-hour power reserve. The mainplate and bridges are made of gold and engraved with the Corum logo surrounded by scrolling arabesque motifs. Above and below the entirely visible movement and rimmed with round diamonds, the dial is composed of resin structures infusing these timepieces with colour and shining radiance, while bearing large white Roman numerals.
The first major change is that the diameter: The brand new releases all measure 47mm wide and an impressive 18.8mm high. Smartly, though, the lugs are short and curved to allow a snug fit to the wrist. Of the 18.8mm of elevation, 8mm of that is down to the sapphire crystal alone. This is seemingly no mean accomplishment: getting a flawless finish on a Sapphire part of the depth, curvature, and essential consistency is actual challenge. Corum achieves this unusual effect by beginning with a block of crystal and squeezing it into a bubble-like shape, prior to polishing to complete clarity.To make the most of this feature, the designers of this Corum Bubble watches, chose to match the timepieces using “Op-art” (optical-art) dials. These clever patterns give the feeling of movement, in addition to depth and shadow. Although level, the dials have a degree of presence. Both watches utilise Super-LumiNova on the hands. The Op-art dials are inspired by the work of Victor Vasarely, a French artist of Hungarian descent as well as the founder the Op-art movement. The magnifying sapphire crystal has such an affect on the flat dials they seem to be sharply domed themselves. With this arresting design leaping out of this watch, it’s a lot easier to understand why this crazy contraption has so many fans the world over. Both watches are fitted with rubber straps topped with leather, with a buckle matching their personal case finishes.
The six versions of this Lady Golden Bridge Round 39 mm come in a pink or white gold case set with 76 diamonds on the bezel and lugs. Water-resistant to 30m, it is topped by a glareproofed sapphire crystal and features an exhibition back secured by screws and also fitted with a sappahire crystal. The colour of the resin structure gives each watch its unique identity, enhanced by a matching alligator leather strap – apart from the pink gold model with its luminous green resin dial, which is teamed with an aubergine-coloured strap. The two other pink gold variations are combined with red and pink, while two different shades of blue adorn the white gold watches.
Finally, for the sixth version, Corum Watches Any Good Replica has opted for a blue and white livery – for the dial and strap respectively – while embellishing the case with precious stones including diamonds.